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Routes in The Other Place

Accusing the Innocent S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Tiggered Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Arresting Start to a Noble Finish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Astrolube Sex Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beetle Byway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitch Slap S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Champollion S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D.D. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Depth Charge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eor Got the Bosch, Tigger Got Drilled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flaming Pellets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard, Pipe Hitting Tiggers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hook, Line and Tigger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hope Pathology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hundred Acre Wood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Krag Kommander S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Low Brow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macauley's Irish Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Makes You Tigger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My First Eleven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Mexican Rodeo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Scratch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
P38 Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plumb Pudding S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring Worm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof of Death T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rosetta Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SR71 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stolen Tiggers T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Submarine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teeter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger Goes to the Enchanted Forest and Tears a Flapper on Pooh's Asshole S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tigger's Got a Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tiggers and Airplanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tooter TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treeiage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
U Boat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown, 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Way of the Beaver, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stephen Patton
Page Views: 132 total, 2/month
Shared By: camhead on Jan 13, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

Really fun mixed climb. Climb through steep, sequential pockets, to a technical slab, until you are established beneath the obvious body-length roof crack. Fire through the crack, over the lip, and then cruise up bomber jugs to the anchors.

Location

As you walk downstream just past Depth Charge, the crag kicks into a cave/alcove, and turns 90 degrees to face you. This is the only roof crack on this section.

Protection

Three bolts at the beginning, then gear, maybe one of each size from .3 to 3 camalots. Use slings, as there is high potential for rope drag in the roof crack.

Photos

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
(more details that I am not putting in the description, so as not to ruin any onsights)

This is a really fun route, deserving of more than the two stars that Mikey gives it in the NRG guidebook. For gear, I placed a great horizontal, runnered 3 camalot at the back of the roof. In the actual roof crack, it looks like you want to put a hand-sized piece in the hand-sized pod midway through the roof. However, if you do this, you will not have anywhere to put your hands. There is actually a really good blue tcu or .3 camalot that you can slide in just behind the pod.

Pulling the roof crack is one of the coolest sequences I've done; it actually climbs a lot like videos I have seen of Fiddler on the Roof at Fremont Canyon, except you are working with a hand jam instead of a tips lock.

Some might think this is a bit soft at the grade. Jan 13, 2012