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Routes in The Other Place

Accusing the Innocent S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Tiggered Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Arresting Start to a Noble Finish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Astrolube Sex Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beetle Byway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitch Slap S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Champollion S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D.D. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Depth Charge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eor Got the Bosch, Tigger Got Drilled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flaming Pellets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard, Pipe Hitting Tiggers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hook, Line and Tigger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hope Pathology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hundred Acre Wood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Krag Kommander S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Low Brow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macauley's Irish Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Makes You Tigger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My First Eleven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Mexican Rodeo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Scratch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
P38 Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plumb Pudding S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring Worm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof of Death T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rosetta Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SR71 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stolen Tiggers T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Submarine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teeter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger Goes to the Enchanted Forest and Tears a Flapper on Pooh's Asshole S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tigger's Got a Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tiggers and Airplanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tooter TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treeiage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
U Boat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown, 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Way of the Beaver, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft, Grade V
FA: Sam Powell 2009
Page Views: 414 total, 8/month
Shared By: Adam Marcus on Sep 4, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

With bolts approximately 10 feet apart on a seemingly blank slab, this route and the ones to either side (Yikes (5.9) to the left and Focus Point 5.11b to the right) look and feel way harder than their ratings. There are some wavy features that start near the base between Ring Worm and Focus Point and traverse up the wall to the top of Yikes. But you've got to pick one line to follow. I picked this one without consulting the guidebook and think I made the right choice. When I was there (Labor day weekend 2013), the first 10 feet along the base of all 3 routes was covered with a thick, wet layer of moss so stick clipping the first bolt and then yarding up the rope was mandatory. You may want to drag the stick clip up the wall with you for some of the other bolts. I'm not saying *I* did that, but I will say this was the first time I "aided" a sport route.

Location

Keep following the obvious path to climber's right of all the other routes at The Other Place until you come to the slab. The 2010 edition of New River Gorge Rock Climbs by Mike Williams (Wulverine Publishing) lists Yikes as a trad route but it has since been bolted.

Protection

5 bolts to a pair of open shunts at the top. My preferred method for rigging a toprope on open shunts is to girth hitch a sling directly to each shunt. The tight slings are much less likely to get flipped off the open shunts and you don't have metal on metal scratching up the shunts (which will then scratch up your rope when you pull it).

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