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Routes in The Other Place

Accusing the Innocent S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Tiggered Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Arresting Start to a Noble Finish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Astrolube Sex Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beetle Byway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitch Slap S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Champollion S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D.D. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Depth Charge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eor Got the Bosch, Tigger Got Drilled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flaming Pellets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard, Pipe Hitting Tiggers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hook, Line and Tigger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hope Pathology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hundred Acre Wood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Krag Kommander S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Low Brow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macauley's Irish Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Makes You Tigger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My First Eleven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Mexican Rodeo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Scratch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
P38 Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plumb Pudding S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring Worm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof of Death T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rosetta Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SR71 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stolen Tiggers T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Submarine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teeter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger Goes to the Enchanted Forest and Tears a Flapper on Pooh's Asshole S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tigger's Got a Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tiggers and Airplanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tooter TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treeiage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
U Boat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown, 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Way of the Beaver, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dan Brayack, Matt Fanning, 2008
Page Views: 276 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 12, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a fairly solid route for the grade, nearly all of it will have your attention. Start by grabbing the long horizontal ledge and pull up to gain a stance. Head up and left toward a thin slab. Make some very thin moves and head toward the overhanging upper section. Clip the last bolt and work your way up the right edge of the arete, making a desperate reach for the clipping jug for the shuts (crux).

Location

This route climbs the striking white face immediately to the right of U Boat, 5.12a and about 15 feet to the left of the start of Depth Charge, 5.12b.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

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Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
Funny. I actually changed it at the suggestion of a BD athlete. It originally had no anchor, but traversed right to the anchor out right...Oh well. You win some you lose some. Either way, stick the top then clip the anchor. Oct 2, 2016
BrianWS
  5.12a
BrianWS  
  5.12a
Strange reengineering on this one.

The route follows a natural line and weakness up the slab and trends to the right side of the arete -- yet the bolt has been moved left and the anchors have been moved away down and left as well, apparently in an attempt to force a direct finish.

Following the weakness right keeps the grade at pretty solid 12a, but with a nasty fall and difficult rope management during the cruxy finish. The direct variation feels much, much more contrived and difficult.

I'm assuming the FA did the bolt repositioning, but this would be a four star route had it not been changed. May 29, 2015