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All Locations > New Mexico > Socorro Area > The Box Climbin… > Spook Canyon > Spook Main Wall

Tiny Dancer

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British


 Avg: 1 from 2 votes

Routes in Spook Main Wall

007 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blowback S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Casper (a.k.a.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class Act S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corporate Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Day of the Jackel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Language Barrier T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
MI6 (a.k.a.) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MI9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mandatory Orientation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optional Disorientation (a.k.a) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plausible Denial S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhumba of the Toads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8 7B
Tiny Dancer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transylvanian Phlebotomist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Venetian Tailor S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bob Broilo et. al.
Page Views: 165 total · 9/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Apr 10, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The crux is above the third bolt. Scary because another bolt seems appropriate.

Location

The climb is the leftmost route on the crag. The very shiny plated hardware has not been painted (not really good).

Protection

3 bolts to a bolt anchor (no chains)

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Bob's Route (a.k.a Tiny Dancer)
Bob's Route (a.k.a Tiny Dancer)
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Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
Please add another bolt if you want, and rename it or whatever. This route is not the best and was climbed and fun in it's current state but super short and never really finished, e.g. no paint or chains, as you mention. It was just the first of a few envisioned and top-roped in that alcove, but I moved away before I could equip them (to the right, which it looks like someone finally put bolts, thanks!). I'm surprised to hear that people feel the crux to be above the third bolt, because we thought that was the easiest part of the route, hence no fourth bolt because it felt squeezed and excessive? But whatever, if you feel strongly about it add one or someday I'll get back to spook and put the finishing touches. Aug 12, 2017

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