Elevation: 5,470 ft
GPS: 34, -106.982 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,154 total · 190/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Nice east facing wall with a handful of sport routes a couple of trad lines and a good amount of bouldering. Morning sun and afternoon shade so plan morning of afternoon climbing according to temperature. Most of the sport routes are 5.12 and up with one 5.11a and at least one line that is still a project. The rock here has lots of the really small pockets (that you can't get fingers into) that make some of the holds quite sharp and some nice bigger pockets. For some reason with the fracturing the majority of the holds face left.

Getting There

Before you get to the Box turn off of hwy 60, turn left at the end of the first guard rail on that side where you can see a bunch of roads and a cross. Stay to the left away from the cross and follow this road for about .5 miles to the second right turn, the first is more of a two track. At the right there is a big open area, stay to the left and pick up the road. Follow this road about .6 miles to a rectangular parking area that has been nicely outlined with rocks. Big enough for maybe 6 cars plus. You will see an old steep road with lots of loose rocks leading up to the wall.

38 Total Climbs

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Location: Spook Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Spook Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V8 7B
 4
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine G…
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Mandatory Orientation
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Beer Bucket
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Miner Slab
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Class Act
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
Transylvanian Phlebotomist
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Social Anxiety
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Plausible Denial
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Wallflower
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Alt-Frack
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Last Call for Alcohol
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Corporate Ladder
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Friend of the Devil
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Ride the Lightning
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Me… Spook Main Wall
 4
V8 7B Boulder
Mandatory Orientation Spook Main Wall
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Beer Bucket Spook Outlying Boulders
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Miner Slab Wallflower Wall
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Class Act Spook Main Wall
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Transylvanian Phlebotomist Spook Main Wall
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Social Anxiety Wallflower Wall
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Plausible Denial Spook Main Wall
 16
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Wallflower Wallflower Wall
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Alt-Frack Wallflower Wall
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Last Call for Alcohol Spook Main Wall
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Corporate Ladder Spook Main Wall
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Friend of the Devil Spook Main Wall
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Ride the Lightning Spook Main Wall
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Spook Canyon »

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