Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Spook Main Wall

007 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blowback S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Casper (a.k.a.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class Act S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corporate Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Day of the Jackel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Language Barrier T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
MI6 (a.k.a.) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MI9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mandatory Orientation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optional Disorientation (a.k.a) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plausible Denial S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhumba of the Toads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8 7B
Tiny Dancer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transylvanian Phlebotomist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Venetian Tailor S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Oct. 1990
Page Views: 1,770 total · 15/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Progressively more difficult climbing through tthe first half broken up by jug pockets. Big moves to an OK rest then a final boulder problem to the anchors.

Start up a low angle slab to the left of the bolt line. Reach out and clip the first bolt then move up into some slots and a pinch on a block, clip bolt 2. Thin face climbing leads to the 3rd clip. Move up on some very small holds and very technical moves leads to a hard stand up and stab for the next good 2 finger pocket and the 4th clip, or an all out jump. Some big moves up on sidepulls and underclings takes one to the 5th clip and a rest. Move to the right with some big moves on positive holds and the 6th bolt. A final commiting big move takes one up to the anchors.

This seemed as hard as or harder than Sinister Dane 5.13b to me, so if Sinister Dane is 5.13b then so is this. Crux sequence might be V7 preceded with a bit of difficult climbing and followed by some big moves to a poor rest to some more difficult climbing.

Location

Pretty much the center line of the sport climbs on the wall. Lots of chalk most of the time. Left of the project with the obvious glue.

Protection

6 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13b
If this was 13a to the original set of anchors than to the current anchors with the additional boulder problem justifies 13b. There are now 7 bolts making the last move much less committing, you may even find yourself wanting to skip the last bolt on redpoint. Feb 1, 2011
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO
Today a hold broke in the crux.

What was the V7 crux with a tricky sequence that used an angled undercling is now an unknown grade after the undercling broke off. There are some unusable remnants of the undercling and after trying the crux many different ways we were unable to put it together. It will still go but it's going to be at least a letter grade harder and more temperature dependent.

While I'm somewhat happy NM gained another hard 13, I'm pretty bummed I missed my send by 5 minutes. I had worked this to an easy one-hang over 7 goes and was confident I would get it next run but ol' Dirty went and broke a hold off a 20 year old climb. Balls. Feb 13, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Hey Wes, look at it this way, now you can work it out and get the re-FA...and for what it is worth I don't remember using any underclings through the "crux" section, maybe up higher on the steeper juggy climbing. Feb 14, 2011
thomas ellis
abq
 
thomas ellis   abq
 
Maybe it's harder but there were always three sequences through the crux (maybe more) so I am not sure the grade will change. Luke, being tall stepped right and lunged for the jug and claimed it was easier. I found the crimp fest more to my liking. Just saying, lots of variations over the past twenty years. Feb 14, 2011
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO
Interesting. Everybody I know used the slanting undercling. Those that didn't couldn't ever pull the move - but yes there are a ton of options through that section... they just all feel much harder than the previous sequence! - as I said, I couldn't pull through it at all. Never tried a lunge from the right. Well if y'all think 13b with the crimps maybe I'll go back and give it another go. Feb 14, 2011
thomas ellis
abq
 
thomas ellis   abq
 
Yeah Wes, like I said I am not sure if the grade is the same. I did the lunge on the dog but sent with the crimps. With the lunge it is definitely lower percentage. Good luck and I hope you get it! Feb 14, 2011
A friend just posted some old slides he shot of the actual FA on Facebook, dated 10/90. I think I had bolted it, by hand if I recall, that summer (August of 1990), tried it a bit then bailed due to bad temps. Lee Sheftel and I were en route to Hueco Tanks that October and stopped in at Spook for an afternoon of climbing. Our friends John and Tracy Hymer from Ruidoso were there and John was close on the redpoint (it was an open project at that point). John and I traded some beta and I was able to pull it off that afternoon, and I think John sent after me that day or came back and did it soon. I don't remember if I used the now-broken undercling or not. Hard to believe this was 26 years ago, but it was. Life is short. Most things suck. Go climb rocks. Dec 12, 2016

More About Ride the Lightning

Printer-Friendly