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Routes in Spook Main Wall

007 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blowback S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Casper (a.k.a.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class Act S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corporate Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Day of the Jackel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Language Barrier T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
MI6 (a.k.a.) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MI9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mandatory Orientation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plausible Denial S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhumba of the Toads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8 7B
Tiny Dancer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transylvanian Phlebotomist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Venetian Tailor S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

This is the main wall, about 40-50 feet tall in the area where the routes are. To the left there is a low cave with several boulder problems.

Boulder problems to the left of the routes in the cave:
B1 I'm leaving some room open for other problems, there are a few over here
B2
B3
B4
B5 Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8/V10
B6 ? Hard
B7 Right to left traverse V3
B8
B9

Getting There

Follow the trail from the parking up the hill and through the boulders to the wall.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spook Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I am pretty sure That far left route was bolted by bob Broilo about a year and a half ago(?). I think he tentatively called it "tiny dancer" and clocked in at 10c/d. Bob can probably confirm/deny this.

If the anchor needs chains let me know. I think the NMT climbing club has a set we could throw on there. Apr 9, 2017
There is an additional route on the extreme left of the crag. It has three shiny bolts and a run to the anchor (unfinished?). The holds look small and the climbing difficult. Mar 27, 2017
Tom Ellis, Luke Laser and I bolted Number 4. Tom and I bolted numbers 7 an 8. All sometime in late 90's. I can't remember if we named the three routes or not. Not sure who is responsible for the glue on the projects to right of Ride the Lightening as I quit climbing for a period of time shortly after bolting the routes. We also bolted the extension to Ride the Lightening and I think Tim possibly went back and added beefy anchors to the top of it. Mar 1, 2011
Craig Copelin
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Craig Copelin   Santa Fe, New Mexico
#9 is Rhumba of the Toads, FA in the late 90's, it is hardish 11.
I did not bolt the top, as it its easy, bring a nut to get you safely to the anchor, unless someone has bolted the top since I last saw it. Feb 25, 2010

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