Type: Boulder, 1825 ft
FA: Jake R
Page Views: 1,969 total · 16/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Stand V8: Work up the right facing off-set till you can reach out left to a good edge. Bring the right up to a sloping dish and jump for the pointed jug in the crack, or match the edge and cross left up to a crimp gaston on the side of the sloping dish, then with your right foot high pull up to the pointed jug. Continue up the crack till you can traverse right and work your way down.

Meine Gummi Frau V10: Start almost laying down on some slopers on the back wall. Move out to a rail that slants up and left, then out left to a pocket. Set your feet and make a long move to a hueco, pretty difficult. Heal hook by your left hand and reach out to the off-set. Plant your feet and fall into the off-set with your right, crux. Though the jump move is still quite difficult and one would expect to come off there at least once after getting through the lower bit.

Location

Climbs the right facing off-set that comes out of the middle of cave starting at about shoulder height, or start lower under a low roof and climb up and left into the off-set for the SDS.

Protection

Pads and spotter, the traverse off and down climb are pretty dicey.

Photos

Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
V7
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
V7
Yes, Jake was FA. SDS is called Meine Gummi Frau. From the bouldering guide:
"Originally envisioned by Peck, Jake's sucessful first ascent put the spurs to Peck, and anger fueled Peck's immediate second ascent a few minutes later." Dec 28, 2009
djkyote  
vimeo.com/8518534 Jul 2, 2010
claude.
ABQ, NM
 
claude.   ABQ, NM
 
The hard line to the right of Meine Gummi Frau is know as Vulgar Display of Power and as far as I know it's still a project. Sep 5, 2011