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Routes in Spook Main Wall

007 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blowback S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Casper (a.k.a.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class Act S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corporate Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Day of the Jackel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Language Barrier T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
MI6 (a.k.a.) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MI9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mandatory Orientation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plausible Denial S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhumba of the Toads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8 7B
Tiny Dancer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transylvanian Phlebotomist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Venetian Tailor S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Boulder, 1825 ft
FA: Jake R
Page Views: 1,826 total, 17/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Stand V8: Work up the right facing off-set till you can reach out left to a good edge. Bring the right up to a sloping dish and jump for the pointed jug in the crack, or match the edge and cross left up to a crimp gaston on the side of the sloping dish, then with your right foot high pull up to the pointed jug. Continue up the crack till you can traverse right and work your way down.

Meine Gummi Frau V10: Start almost laying down on some slopers on the back wall. Move out to a rail that slants up and left, then out left to a pocket. Set your feet and make a long move to a hueco, pretty difficult. Heal hook by your left hand and reach out to the off-set. Plant your feet and fall into the off-set with your right, crux. Though the jump move is still quite difficult and one would expect to come off there at least once after getting through the lower bit.

Location

Climbs the right facing off-set that comes out of the middle of cave starting at about shoulder height, or start lower under a low roof and climb up and left into the off-set for the SDS.

Protection

Pads and spotter, the traverse off and down climb are pretty dicey.
claude.
ABQ, NM
 
claude.   ABQ, NM
 
The hard line to the right of Meine Gummi Frau is know as Vulgar Display of Power and as far as I know it's still a project. Sep 5, 2011
djkyote  
vimeo.com/8518534 Jul 2, 2010
Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
V7
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
V7
Yes, Jake was FA. SDS is called Meine Gummi Frau. From the bouldering guide:
"Originally envisioned by Peck, Jake's sucessful first ascent put the spurs to Peck, and anger fueled Peck's immediate second ascent a few minutes later." Dec 28, 2009