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Routes in Spook Main Wall

007 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blowback S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Casper (a.k.a.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class Act S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corporate Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Day of the Jackel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Language Barrier T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
MI6 (a.k.a.) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MI9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mandatory Orientation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plausible Denial S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhumba of the Toads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8 7B
Tiny Dancer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transylvanian Phlebotomist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Venetian Tailor S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Bertrand Gramont, Hufnagel
Page Views: 390 total, 5/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 1, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

An easy start to get on the wall leads to a low first and second bolt. At the second bolt the holds get worse and the crux is encountered. Figure out which holds to use and traverse slightly left to the spaced third bolt. From the third bolt head up on mostly good holds to the distant 4th bolt. From here the climbing gets more difficult with another short boulder problem, but is well protected to the anchors.

Location

Left side of the main wall of Spook Canyon. The furthest left bolted route on the wall. In between the undercling crack "Language Barrier" and "Samba of the Frogs" to the right.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors. Best not to fall as you approach the third or 4th bolt.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12b
When I did this I thought it was a good climb and worth doing, though a bit on the thin side for my taste. Feb 4, 2011