Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mohit?
Page Views: 106 total · 5/month
Shared By: Lone Ranger on Apr 6, 2017
Admins: Gokul

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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Another fine climb, a classic 3 pitch route to the summit.

P1, 5.9+ crack is a bit shallow, even within the shallow crack the first placement isn't possible until about 20 feet off the ground, hence the PG rating. Alternately, you can place a #2 cam or so, in the short crack to the right of it as the first pro and use a long runner. The pitch ends with a 10 foot traverese to the table sized ledge which is shared by To Bee or Not to Bee P1 (i.e. the two routes cross here and share the anchor).

P2: Three options.

a) Right-most (blue line): 2 O'Clock from where you stand, This is the same as P2 of To Bee or Not to Bee. 5.7+

b) Head up left (green line), 5.10b, 11 O'Clock from where you stand but it quickly veers to the left, almost horizontal, downward facing crack for about 10 feet.

The crack then goes up a bit and turns right, like a C shape, to connect to P3 of To Bee or Not to Bee. Protection is a bit hard till you connect.

c) Take the left-most crack (yellow line), 9 O'Clock from where you stand, climb the crack around from the left and rejoin option b). I haven't climbed this, it could be harder than 5.10b; it felt exposed and scary to me.


The easiest way to locate this is, it is the right-most route/crack on the North side sector of the BT Pillar. This section has all the nice trad routes, except Louvre (which is South facing). As you walk along the trail you will pass several routes and then climb up the 8-ft fort wall (which marks the start of the To Bee or Not to Bee start), walk past it for about 20 meters around the bushes to reach the start of this route.

Again, it is the right-most route on this sector of the BT Pillar.


A medium set (.3 to 3 BD Camalots and a set of nuts should suffice.