Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||256 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Lone Ranger on Mar 30, 2017|
P1, 5.7, 20m. Follow the easy crack without protection for about 20ft, place a pro as you reach the high point where the crack curves to the right eventually becoming almost horizontal, place one more cam and proceed along the crack and you are standing on a table-sized ledge. This is the same belay station for P1 of Khoday Neer which comes up from about 10m to the right.
For anchor, you can place a cam or two on the horizontal crack near your right foot, and 2 cams on the crack above your left hand. We just used the left hand side crack, 2 piece anchor since the grade was pretty easy and even.
P2 continues along the rightward/upward crack from the ledge, 5.7+ pitch. The take-off is the crux.
You could instead follow the prominent crack leftward, which eventually turns right and connects with the route, at the same ledge/belay station as the one above. This pitch is harder at about 5.9+ (P2 of Khoday Neer).
P3: The "money pitch". A beautiful, exposed, delicate and fine crack that curves upwards all the way to the summit block, past the 2-bolt rap station. Some sections of the rock feel razor thin, enjoyable.
P1 and P2 don't give exposure.
Rap off 35m, either with a 70m rope or 50m doubles. The 2 bolt rappel station is common to all routes on Banyan Tree Pillar.