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Routes in Achalu South Wall

Broomberg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Seema Pai, Dinesh Kaigonhalli, Pranesh Manchaiah
Page Views: 212 total · 21/month
Shared By: T T Niranjan on Mar 29, 2017
Admins: Gokul

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Description

4 pitches

P1: 5.7+ 33m, starts slabby, about 7-8 bolts to the anchor.

P2: 5.8, 33m, continues to be slabby, mostly legwork. Ends on a nice grassy ledge/cave; one can stand/sit there, about 1.5 metres from the anchor; carry a long sling.

I prefer to combine P1 and P2 with a 60m rope by having the belayer move up to bolt 1 at a suitable time. The grade eases closer to the P2 belay, so the rope drag is manageable.

P3: 5.10a, 30m: This is by far the best pitch. Very distinctive rock features, with generous holds on steep/mildly overhanging section for about 5 bolts. Exquisite climbing. As a 5'5" climber, when I led it the first time, after 4th bolt I felt I was stuck, but there are decent holds higher up which I could reach on tiptoes, well before I could actually see them. To me this was the most memorable part. I didn't feel scared since I knew the grade was 5.10a so there must be some holds soon, but if I hadn't known the grade I would have dithered. The second time around I had a 5'8" climber leading this and he cruised along, he didn't even notice this as a crux.

P4, 5.9, 30m: Another typical slab; about 10 bolts.

From P4 station, there is another 30 odd meters of scrambling/5.4 terrain to top out to the highest point on the hill marked by a flag station. Walk down the hill East-West direction, down the rock cut steps the way you do for the Achalu lower wall routes, and turn right (north side) to get to the ground.

I didn't take route pics, just have some personal pics; will add more informative pics once I get better pics.

Location

Drive past the Avruti right turn on the Ramanagara-Kanakapura road that you take for the rest of the older routes on Achalu. About 1 km down the road, just before Senapathy factory, you will find the village housing cluster. Park there and hike up to left side (south side) of the main Achalu dome. About 20 mins brisk hike, past the fields to get to the start.

Protection

Well bolted, about 10+ feet apart, typical of slab routes here. The steep sections of P3 are more closely bolted

Photos

Gokul

  5.9
Gokul    
  5.9
I believe it's possible to rap the route with a single 70 in 4 raps.I did it with double 70s in two. Keep your helmet on while rapping and belaying - there are plenty of loose flakes. Or walk off to the back and down the right side. 5 days ago
Gokul

  5.9
Gokul    
  5.9
Here's how I'd grade the pitches (upper pitches climbed with a headlamp)
P1 (5 + 2 bolts) 5.8+, lots of loose flakes on slab, as of Jan 2018 (but it has only seen a couple dozen ascents so far)
P2 (7 + 2 bolts) 5.8, More slab, and maybe it felt easier because the rock was more solid?
P3 (8 + 2 bolts) 5.9, A little bushwhacking leads to pleasant climbing through good holds on a vertical face
P4 (9 + 2 bolts) 5.9, I lost a foot on a flake that crunched under me - maybe it would have been easier to avoid under daylight 5 days ago

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