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Routes in (2) Orange Wall

Agent Orange S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cornick's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route Crafters S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tangerine Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Blue Yonder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Things S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 541 total, 52/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Jan 17, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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8 Opinions

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Description

Featuring stellar climbing up a steep overhang, this route is amazing. Probably the best route for the grade in the Portland area.

Location

Left side of the wall. Look for the steep, overhanging corner with the chalked up jugs.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

TravisJBurke
Seattle, WA
  5.11d
TravisJBurke   Seattle, WA
  5.11d
I thought it was 11d, especially when thinking about similar 11ds in the Red (which this climbs like and looks like!)...that crux move was very hard (for me! esp. in the random heat) and it was so overhanging...But I do better on techy-vert routes like Ring of Fire vis-a-vis those forearm burners...
Edit: After sending in the cooler temps, the Crux move is totally doable. Maybe 11c/d? Still steep. Oct 30, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
It's super easy to climb to the first bolt, no need for a lower bolt. And the runout near the top is not that far, and it's much easier climbing and you might not even hit the wall if you fell, let alone the ground. It's not even PG rated, let alone R rated. Oct 29, 2017
Matt Pennock
Portland, OR
  5.11c R
Matt Pennock   Portland, OR
  5.11c R
I agree with the 11c rating. Nowhere near as difficult as Ring of Fire 11d at Smith Rock.
It's one of those rare outdoor "gym" climbs on jugs. Super classic for sure.

I recommend a stick clip for the first bolt unless you're close to 6 feet tall. Or another bolt should be placed. It's a little run out between the last two bolts too, though easy climbing. For these reasons I'd rate it a 5.11c R. Oct 29, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
I just put the grade I thought it was on here. Guidebook will still say 11d, since that was the original grade, but MP rates things off of consensus in the hope that the grades are listed more accurately and when I climbed it, I didn't feel there's any way Wild Things is 11d... so I put 11c. If others feel it's 11d, then they can put that and it will eventually change. Either way it's an amazing route and will be one of the best at the grade in the Portland area when Madrone opens! Apr 27, 2017
bryans  
It's been an 11d since the mid 1990s. Why is it 11c now? Apr 26, 2017