All Locations > Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > Orange Wall

Surfing with the Alien

Name: Surfing with the Alien
Rating: 2.6

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Orange Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Agent Orange S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Comfortizer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cornick's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Feat of Clay T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Graduation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Orange Menace, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Orange Wall \| 6140 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Orangotang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Route Crafters S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Surfing with the Alien T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Tangerine Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Where the Wild Things Roam S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Wild Blue Yonder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	45.39101, -122.45814
FA:	Wayne Wallace, Tim Olson, 10/88
Page Views:	1,117 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Nate Ball on Jul 25, 2019
Admins:	Roberta Zouain, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.

Description

Climb the face just left of the chimney, stemming back onto the block behind you and eventually mounting them at the 2nd bolt. Climb the arete and crack and fiddle in gear where you can before bashing through the large sloping edges of the middle face. Cut left along a sweet diagonal that eventually widens to hands. A couple of easy moves place you at a rail, a bolt out right, and Cornick's Corner easily reachable on your left. Most people will probably bail left here and romp up the last few moves of the crack. If you do go for the final crux, know that the difficulty is out-of-character with the rest of the route. Described as 10d in the PRC guidebook, it is certainly WAY harder. It's a brief, bolt-protected, and exciting series of moves though if you're capable.

Historical Note: Originally the route started up the face instead of the chimney. The rebolters (not me) moved the bolts far to the right, which takes away this good bit of climbing, but kept the same bolt count and made for a less spicy start.