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Routes in Orange Wall
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Agent Orange S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Comfortizer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cornick's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feat of Clay T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Graduation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Orange Menace, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Wall | 6140 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Orangotang S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route Crafters S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Surfing with the Alien T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tangerine Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where the Wild Things Roam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wild Blue Yonder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 45.39101, -122.45814 |
| FA: | Wayne Wallace & Bob McGown, 3/89 |
| Page Views: | 1,440 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
Do the direct start to Tangerine Dream, a little grovelly, and then edge through a short but spectacular face section. Shake out at a flake jug before committing to the crux bulge.
Here you can power up to the "knob-pocket" and head left, using a sloping series of rails and a heal hook to gain a big flake, or more straight up from the "knob-pocket" doing a mantle/press to a sloping ball-crimp. Either way is hard! Like really hard!
Rest a bit and end in the shallow dihedral via lock-offs, lie-backing, and keeping your freshly noodled arms in check. Don't fall clipping the anchors - that would be heart breaking.
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