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Routes in Chaos Boulder

Chaos V8 7B
Circus Trick V5+ 6C+
Circus Trick Right V5 6C
Grim Reacher Direct V8 7B
Grim Reacher, The V5 6C
Hell Belly V10-11 8A
Hell Belly Stand V8 7B
Phantom Fighter V11 8A
Phantom Fighter (Stand) V9 7C
Press tight V3 6A
Rampage V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 318 total · 21/month
Shared By: Clayton Knudson on Nov 29, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An interesting blend of power and technique. good core strength required.

Follow the corner up to a couple of good holds and mantle onto the flake to top out. Start holds are a good, but small, right hand crimp and left hand pressured into the corner with a small right foot hold. Slap up the corner and adjust until you can reach a crimp to set up for the top of the flake.

Location

The problem is on the right side of the shallow corner, formed by the large flake. It is between Rampage and Phantom Fighter.

Protection

A couple of pads and a spotter. Pad the hole well, I fell into it a couple of times and its not fun.

Photos

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Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
Yah, it's funny because 'Rampage' was upgraded from v3 to v5 in High On Moab and, having climbed both, I would say that 'Press Tight' is harder than 'Rampage'. 'Rampage' certainly requires more commitment, but the crux on 'Press Tight' is definitely harder. I also think 'Press Tight' is harder than every other v3 at Big Bend (and I've done them all, even the real obscure ones). I think v5ish is a fair grade, maybe v4 at the absolute lowest. Definitely easier than most of the v6's though. Jan 13, 2017
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
 
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
 
That sounds right just looked at the book as well. Info edited, f me v3 huh? Jan 12, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
I climbed this a week ago. It's a fun line. However after taking a look at some guidebooks, I believe this line has been documented in 'High On Moab'. It's called 'Press Tight' and in typical Big Bend fashion is graded v3. The description in the book is a little confusing, but I believe it's referring to this problem.

Anyhow, I thought this climb was pretty fun and it definitely felt noticeably harder than v3, but who knows... Jan 11, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
Honestly I don't remember how I did it since it's been so long, but I kind of remember starting it a little right of the prow and maybe using the hold you're describing. Dec 7, 2016
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
 
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
 
Does the sit version start with the right hand kind of underclinging a good hold at the base of the corner? I have done that one and thought it might be around V4 from the sit, but ended up going up the middle of the large flake.

I'll try and get some pictures on it this weekend and see if we can figure it out. Dec 6, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
There is a problem similar to this that is described in the 'Black Bible' Utah bouldering guide, though I believe your line starts slightly to the right of this based on the chalk that I saw.

There's a high stand start right on the prow called 'Hangin Tight' and then a sit start to that line (which is what I'm alluding to above) that was graded v3, though it always felt a bit harder than that to me. However, I can't say for sure how much difference there is between your line and that sit start until I try it and compare. Dec 6, 2016

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