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Routes in Chaos Boulder

Chaos V8 7B
Circus Trick V5+ 6C+
Circus Trick Right V5 6C
Grim Reacher Direct V8 7B
Grim Reacher, The V5 6C
Hell Belly V10-11 8A
Hell Belly Stand V8 7B
Phantom Fighter V11 8A
Phantom Fighter (Stand) V9 7C
Press tight V3 6A
Rampage V3 6A
Type: Boulder
FA: ????
Page Views: 11,045 total, 57/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the arete just in sight at the right edge of the photo below, on the biggest boulder in Big Bend. Cool moves on decent holds, especially from the sit start, lead to a hard throw to a bad hold, and another hard throw to the huge jug at the lip. Very, very cool.

Protection

The landing is good, a pad is nice but not necessary if you have a spotter.
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
Let's be honest, more like v6. No matter the grade, this problem climbs beautifully from the sit. Make sure to top it out for full credit! :) Aug 26, 2012
Reedrombo
Home is where you park it
Reedrombo   Home is where you park it
Awesome, awesome awesome problem. A stiff rating at V4, pretty borderline I would say but it was fun to work through. Mar 14, 2010
Sandbag is right! We were all dropping off this over and over again. Then a guy in our group who sends V8 on a regular basis jumped on it and proceeded to fall of three straight times before he got it. Sheesh! Jan 27, 2010
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V6-
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V6-
Lisa Rands had the FFA on this sandbagged "V4" Jan 27, 2010
The dyno on Circus Trick is one of the coolest moves I've ever experienced in climbing. The sit start doesn't really make the problem any harder, I think, as the crux is all about getting to that lip...it's really hard to stick any way you do it. The short persons' beta is viciously awkward and core-strength intensive. Footwork is tough. The dyno can be done from the two sideways-spaced jugs to avoid the tough move. Of course it's a little longer flight, so I really don't know what is harder. Done this way, the crux is hanging on to the lip as you swing out (you have to jump backwards quite a bit). Sick, sick, sick move! SO GOOD! Aug 22, 2007