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Routes in Chaos Boulder

Chaos V8 7B
Circus Trick V5+ 6C+
Circus Trick Right V5 6C
Grim Reacher Direct V8 7B
Grim Reacher, The V5 6C
Hell Belly V10-11 8A
Hell Belly Stand V8 7B
Phantom Fighter V11 8A
Phantom Fighter (Stand) V9 7C
Press tight V3 6A
Rampage V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Tait Rees
Page Views: 457 total, 13/month
Shared By: ben jammin on Jan 25, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start as for the original Grim Reacher with a high left hand sloper and a right hand about shoulder height. Move up and around the corner to the crimp rail then to the large sloping edge about 15 feet up.

This is where the line goes straight up, instead of out right around the corner to the keyed in block. An intimidating highball for sure.

The crux is moving from the larger sloper to a small crimp rail system about 4 feet farther up. Once on the crimp go for big holds over the lip. You'll be quite a ways off the ground at that point so an armada of pads is a good idea.

Originally rated V7 a few holds have broke including a fairly critical undercling that no longer exists. Coincidently, holds have broken at the start that make it much easier than before. All and all, the crux up high has gotten harder with breakage.

Highball'n and breaking holds... Get some

Location

Just to the right of Chaos. This is one of the most intimidating and aesthetic lines at Big Bend and is rarely done.

Protection

Lots of pads. The landing is straight forward, fortunately, as the fall is usually straight down from the crux hold.

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