Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Florian Haenel, Chris Kalman, Austin Siadak
Page Views: 5,443 total · 57/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Nov 16, 2016
Admins: Eric Och

You & This Route


15 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

One of the most popular beginner routes in Cochamo - most people rap after the 6th pitch, making for a very convenient first climb in the area. Summiting either Pared Atardecer or Cerro Laguna, however, is not to be missed. Both require a bit more "mountain sense" to descend other routes safely.

I say it's about 1500 feet, but that's base to summit. If you just do the first 6 pitches or so, it's obviously much shorter... maybe 700 feet.

P1: Bolted slab, 5.9
P2: Two options, both 5.10. Right is dirtier, left tends to be wet. Both are 5.10, and require some small pro (purple and blue tcu sizes, other micros). bring a rack to .75 just to be safe.
MOVE BELAY: Do the first "tree-a-ferrata" up to base of bolted arete, make anchor.
P3: bolted arete, couple pieces of gear for the start. 5 stars. 5.10
P4: bolted arete, move out left onto face eventually, bring #3 (#4 if you're really uncomfortable on cracks can help), belay at bulge in ridge.
P5: Bust out right on slabs to the "Manjar Corner". Bring the full rack. clip a few bolts, take it to the trees. 5.10-
MOVE BELAY: Do the second "tree-a-ferrata" through the woods to a flat ledge.
P6: Climb a bolted gendarme, 5.7 or 5.8 or something.

This is the last place you can easily rap the route without some trickery/downclimbing.

MOVE BELAY: hike along ridge to base of crux pitch on gendarme.
P7: awkward squeeze to exit move onto slab by bolt, then difficult bolted slab finish. That last bolt was placed after Flo freed it onsight (with shitty gear in the crack below) keep that in mind when you clip that bolt!
P8-10: 4th-5th class ridge traversing. Prob no harder than 5.5 anywhere. About 100m, but if you pitch it out, might be worth doing in 3.

Endless 3rd class takes you up to the col between Atardecer and Tiempo. Go left to summit Atardecer and rap Al Centro (hard to find the raps, make sure you arrive with plenty of daylight), or go right to summit Tiempo and rap Doppler Effect (difficult to find the raps, mandatory 4th/5th class downclimbing).

Location Suggest change

On La Aleta de Tiburon, the Shark's Fin. Pop up from the bivy boulder into the clearing above, and look left. The Shark's Fin sticks out really clearly between Atardecer and Laguna. This route climbs the prominent right arete of the fin.

Cross the creek just upstream of the crossing for pared atardecer, at the first "pool" (depending on how much water is in the stream, it may be dry or just a puddle). and follow the trail through the woods to the gully. Hike up the gully, following cairns, to base of the wall. The route begins on the uphill side of the arete, climbing slab until joining the arete proper.

Protection Suggest change

I think a single rack to #3 was fine - maybe 12 QD/runners total. I seem to recall some micro units (purple TCU maybe?) on P2.

2 ropes to rap.

Photos

loading