Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon

5.10c, Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.9 from 19 votes
FA: Florian Haenel, Chris Kalman, Austin Siadak
International > S America > Chile > 14. Los Lagos (… > Valle Cochamó > Anfiteatro > Aleta de Tiburon (Sha…

Description

One of the most popular beginner routes in Cochamo - most people rap after the 6th pitch, making for a very convenient first climb in the area. Summiting either Pared Atardecer or Cerro Laguna, however, is not to be missed. Both require a bit more "mountain sense" to descend other routes safely.

I say it's about 1500 feet, but that's base to summit. If you just do the first 6 pitches or so, it's obviously much shorter... maybe 700 feet.

P1: Bolted slab, 5.9
P2: Two options, both 5.10. Right is dirtier, left tends to be wet. Both are 5.10, and require some small pro (purple and blue tcu sizes, other micros). bring a rack to .75 just to be safe.
MOVE BELAY: Do the first "tree-a-ferrata" up to base of bolted arete, make anchor.
P3: bolted arete, couple pieces of gear for the start. 5 stars. 5.10
P4: bolted arete, move out left onto face eventually, bring #3 (#4 if you're really uncomfortable on cracks can help), belay at bulge in ridge.
P5: Bust out right on slabs to the "Manjar Corner". Bring the full rack. clip a few bolts, take it to the trees. 5.10-
MOVE BELAY: Do the second "tree-a-ferrata" through the woods to a flat ledge.
P6: Climb a bolted gendarme, 5.7 or 5.8 or something.

This is the last place you can easily rap the route without some trickery/downclimbing.

MOVE BELAY: hike along ridge to base of crux pitch on gendarme.
P7: awkward squeeze to exit move onto slab by bolt, then difficult bolted slab finish. That last bolt was placed after Flo freed it onsight (with shitty gear in the crack below) keep that in mind when you clip that bolt!
P8-10: 4th-5th class ridge traversing. Prob no harder than 5.5 anywhere. About 100m, but if you pitch it out, might be worth doing in 3.

Endless 3rd class takes you up to the col between Atardecer and Tiempo. Go left to summit Atardecer and rap Al Centro (hard to find the raps, make sure you arrive with plenty of daylight), or go right to summit Tiempo and rap Doppler Effect (difficult to find the raps, mandatory 4th/5th class downclimbing).

Location

On La Aleta de Tiburon, the Shark's Fin. Pop up from the bivy boulder into the clearing above, and look left. The Shark's Fin sticks out really clearly between Atardecer and Laguna. This route climbs the prominent right arete of the fin.

Cross the creek just upstream of the crossing for pared atardecer, at the first "pool" (depending on how much water is in the stream, it may be dry or just a puddle). and follow the trail through the woods to the gully. Hike up the gully, following cairns, to base of the wall. The route begins on the uphill side of the arete, climbing slab until joining the arete proper.

Protection

I think a single rack to #3 was fine - maybe 12 QD/runners total. I seem to recall some micro units (purple TCU maybe?) on P2.

2 ropes to rap.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Megan Kelly high on the ridge during an early ascent.
[Hide Photo] Megan Kelly high on the ridge during an early ascent.
R Shore following the P4 arete. Pic: NB
[Hide Photo] R Shore following the P4 arete. Pic: NB
Katie Ryan on the crux pitch.
[Hide Photo] Katie Ryan on the crux pitch.
The 5-star bolted arete pitch. [Photo] Megan Kelly
[Hide Photo] The 5-star bolted arete pitch. [Photo] Megan Kelly
view from pitch 8
[Hide Photo] view from pitch 8
The entire sharks fin. Photo taken from the north
[Hide Photo] The entire sharks fin. Photo taken from the north
Nearing the top of pitch 5 I believe
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top of pitch 5 I believe

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Goerlich
Spring, TX
[Hide Comment] stunning! Jan 8, 2019
Ben Thompson
Bend OR
[Hide Comment] We continued up and summited the 1701m peak to the left. Awesome route, if you forget all of the tree climbing. It's possible to rap the whole route as well with a little bit of 5th class downclimbing Feb 5, 2019
Thomas Gilmore
Where the climate suits my…
[Hide Comment] The description here says to rap Doppler but it is now possible to scramble (mandatory exposed low 5th) following well marked cairns to the top of pitch 6 of Todo Cambia and rap right back to the base of the route. I would much prefer this rappel to Doppler and puts you right back to where you started. Mar 4, 2022