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Routes in Insomnia Canyon

Denied Bail T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Insomnia Spire - 25 to Life T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life Without Parole T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Valhalla T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches
FA: McCord, Harrison, Snyder, Cuzco.net
Page Views: 2,122 total, 165/month
Shared By: Blake M on Nov 2, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Life Without Parole is a magical adventure up the south face of Insomnia spire, those who dream of this route never sleep again.

Pitch One
- 5.11
Climb slabby crack through wide boxes to ledge and bolted belay.

Pitch Two - V3+
Move belay left 40 ft. 2 bolts.

Pitch Three
- 5.12
Look up, yes, you get to climb that. Blast off the off belay ledge, following 3 bolts to the obvious splitter above. Jam your way to the anchor.

Pitch Four
- 5.11-
Climb magic hands to magic fists to magic offwidth to magic munge to magic anchor.

Pitch Five
- 5.10
Awkward thin hands to bolted OW. You are on a tower.

Pitch Six
- 5.11-
Boulder around to the north side, joining 25 to Life and quest to the summit (5.9+ PG-13).


Approach:

Drive out woody mountain road to FS 778 follow this, taking rights at any forks to a primo overlook and campsite on the rim of the West Fork. From here blast down the ridge straight out of the parking lot. Follow this ridge down cutting left when needed. Right above the gully/drainage cut right following ledges right and zigzagging down some steps to continue down the ridge. After about 10 min you will reach an outcropping of magical red rainbow rock. Continue about 200ft and cut right into the far too gnar couloir. Ski down the brown pow avoiding dense vegetation and locus. When you join another drainage continue down another 100 yards and look for an escape ramp to your right. Follow this contouring into the canyon and join a slick rock slab. Head up canyon along the sidewalk cutting up into the veg when the sidewalk ends. Bushwack up to the base. The route starts on the east face.

Approach time:

3 Man Bobsled Record - 26:15

Approach time may vary. Consult the Approach Estimator™ chart below

Approach Estimator™ Chart
-------------------------
Base Time - 26 min - Add 15 min for each box checked*
-------------------------
X - Are you reading this?
X - Are you reading this on the approach?
X - First time doing this approach?
X - Is it dark?
X - Are you lost?
X - Did you forget your headlamp?
X - Did you get a flat tire?
-------------------------
  • boxes may be checked multiple times

Deproach - Reverse your steps, take your approach time and double it


CUZ CO© NEW ROUTE GUARANTEE - You will have fun or your money back, oh yeah, that's right, you didn't do anything, you're just climbing. Have Fun.

Location

East/South Face of Insomnia Spire

Protection

Dbls .3-4
1x - 0 C3, 1 C3, New 5,6
7 draws/runners
Matt Enlow
Wyoming
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
I'm laughing my ass off, that description is so money. Thanks guys. Apr 18, 2017
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Jeff: yeah we built some character that day and possibly even learned a lesson or 2 on how not do do things. I mean look how psyched I was after. I think Casey has an even better picture. mountainproject.com/v/11233… Nov 21, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Here is some approach beta. If you don't like spoilers don't watch, if you want good beta don't watch.
vimeo.com/192286623

Kevin/Casey: I thought of you guys a bunch when I finally saw your approach from the tower. Good job. Looked to easily be the worse approach award of the year. Nov 20, 2016
Blake M
 
Blake M  
 
Added a map, hopefully, that will make it clearer. Nov 3, 2016
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Nice work guys, love the name. Such a sick tower! Looks like no one will ever do the original route again! The brown pow on the approach is accurate. Also having been there multiple times I'm still a little lost reading the approach beta. Good luck to everyone else trying to find their way to the base haha. Nov 3, 2016
Zach Harrison
  5.12 PG13
Zach Harrison  
  5.12 PG13
A trad lifers route, this big hairy adventure is one of the finest tower experiences in the region. While a bit uneven in quality throughout, nobody will argue that the 3rd pitch isn't fucking incredible. If you are guilty of adventure climbing then Life Without Parole is a sentence you wont mind serving. Nov 2, 2016