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Elevation: 6,447 ft 1,965 m
GPS: 34.99675, -111.78113
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 160 total · 9/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 16, 2024 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

The west side of Insomnia Canyon tends to be more complex in its access to routes. 

Since this side of the canyon is split into several sections, you'll find that each area has its own unique access... be that the grueling hike to the base, rappelling off and into your route from the top, or navigating handlines down to the lower tier of rock to then rappel in. As with the rest of this canyon, the area is committing. 

Look over each route to get a sense of how to access each of them. I am sure the area could be organized into three sections: Insomnia Southwest, Insomnia Spire, and Insomnia Northwest. With time and consent from developers, this organization can eventually happen.

Be prepared to get yourself out, with the easiest option being the harrowing hike that has only gotten more and more overgrown with 10-foot-high New Mexican locust, thick raspberry patches, soft soil, and downed trees in a post-burn area. That being said, if you find your way to the climbing, you'll be rewarded with excellent Coconino sandstone. Insomnia Canyon provides

Getting There Suggest change

FS road 778 off of Woody Mtn. Road.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Insomnia West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Life Without Parole
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Life Without Parole
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 6 pitches
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