Jisaboke (Time Confusion)

From Forest Road 778, navigate to Buckhead Point on the west side of Insomnia. At the northeast side of the parking area, hike down between the limestone layer.

You have two approach options:

Option 1: Rappel In from the top of Late Onset Insomnia

• Hike down to the top of the sport pitch, Late Onset Insomnia.

• Rappel the single pitch on chains, or fix a rope: GPS coordinates: 34.997321, -111.782044

• On exit, you can either:

  • Hike out,

  • Climb the 5.12 sport pitch, or

  • Jug out on your fixed rope.

Option 2: Handline Descent

• A committing approach involving some exposed scrambling.

• You'll hand-over-hand down sections of vertical rock (approx. 10 ft each).

• The handline begins at a tree GPS coordinates: 34.997630, -111.782380

• Follow the handline down, then continue via cairns.

Both approaches converge on a large lower ledge system. Follow cairns to another handline (tied to a pine tree) and descend through bushy terrain until you reach a pine tree about 15 ft from the cliff edge.

• Top of the route coordinates: 34.997393, -111.780653

Route Overview

Jisaboke 時差ぼけ is a Japanese word for jetlag, more directly translating as 'time confusion.' It was one of the first Japanese words my father taught me and I chose it to honor his memory in one of my favorite parts of Northern Arizona climbing.

This route ascends a southeast-facing corner on the southwest side of Insomnia. We sent it in May and found that the base of the route goes into the shade around 1 p.m., allowing us to climb in the shade the entire way out.

Rappelling the Route

The route can be rappelled with a 70m rope from the top of Pitch 5, marked by two large bolted chains.

Rappel 1

• Rap to a small ledge at the top of Pitch 4, with a bolted anchor.

• If you brought wide cams, leave anything larger than a #4 here — they won't be needed lower down.

Rappel 2

• Rap to a ledge at the top of Pitch 3, with bolted anchors and chains.

Rappel 3

• Rap into the chimney. Stay skier’s left of the tree.

• Anchor is on a small sloping ledge inside the chimney. Watch rope ends — it's a full 35m.

Rappel 4

• Continue down the chimney to a sloped ledge on skier’s left.

• Bolted anchor with chains.

• If climbing the arete, leave your rack here — you'll only need:

  • Draws

  • A 0.5 and 0.75 cam

Rappel 5

• Rap to the ground.

• Pro tip: Clean the crimps on the way down for a better experience on the first pitch.

Pitch Breakdown

P1 – The Arete or the Chimney (5.11a)

• Choose between:

  • Climb arete and face: 7 bolts + 1 cam (crimpy face climbing).

  • Chimney: Gear-protected; I have not personally led it. Likely takes a standard rack.

P2 – Bulge to Chimney (5.10)

• Climb up and left, over a bulge into the chimney.

• Avoid using the tree for extra points.

• Place gear when you can and clip 2 bolts along the way. Bring alpine draws.

P3 – Hero Pitch (5.12b)

• Stem and jam up the chimney while placing gear when you can. You'll likely need to extend pieces here. The rock is fascinating in texture and formation in this section.

• Clip 2 bolts, then exit out past the tree to a rest.

• The second half involves a small roof, tips crack, and endurance climbing.

P4 – Tips and Corner (5.12b)

• Start with hand-size gear, then move into a flared tips crack — be mindful of placing your gear here as it is slightly flared.

• Climb past gear placements and a couple of bolts to a small ledge.

P5 – Double Cracks (5.11)

• Burlier than it looks.

• Climb the dual crack system, navigating varied crack sizes.

• You can place a 5 & 6 if you want, otherwise, you’ll need to be mindful of your placements. Extend your pieces.

• One bolt near the top. 

Exit Options

1. Climb Late Onset Insomnia (5.12)

2. Jug out on your fixed rope

3. Scramble up the handline

70m rope

7 quickdraws

Extendable slings

Doubles from Green C3 to #3 (Black Diamond)

1x #4

Optional #5 and #6 for Pitch 5