Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Page Views: 341 total · 13/month
Shared By: Blake M on Nov 3, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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The other line on the tower. The obvious full-length line on the tower. the 2nd ascent of the tower did this sit start. The first ascensionist K. Kent (first name withheld to protect the guilty) also envisioned this route but arrived a week too late, only to bail from partway up after seeing bolts.

Pitch 1 5.11
Climb slabby crack through wide boxes to ledge and bolted belay. This is the same first pitch as Life Without Parole

Pitch 2 5.11+
Work up the slippery, hero tips crack past 2 bolts. At the ledge, step right into the other hero crack. at the roof, move right to a belay.

Pitch 3 5.10
Go up the thin hands crack to a horizontal, skate right to the arete, clip a bolt and keep moving up and right past another bolt to a belay alcove.

Pitch 4 5.10-
Box up the fist crack through a bulge, step right to a hand crack. Gently push your way past wide cracks into the bolted

Pitch 5 5.9+ PG-13

Join 25 to life and quest you way up the north face to the summit.

Rap Life Without Parole with 70 m


Drive out woody mountain road to FS 778 follow this, taking rights at any forks to a primo overlook and campsite on the rim of the West Fork. From here blast down the ridge straight out of the parking lot. Follow this ridge down cutting left when needed. Right above the gully/drainage cut right following ledges right and zigzagging down some steps to continue down the ridge. After about 10 min you will reach a outcropping of magical red rainbow rock. Continue about 200ft and cut right into the far too gnar couloir. Ski down the brown pow avoiding dense vegetation and locus. When you join another drainage continue down another 100 yards and look for an escape ramp to your right. Follow this contouring into the canyon and join a slickrock slab. Head up canyon along the sidewalk cutting up into the veg when the sidewalk ends. Bushwack up to the base. The route starts on the east face.

Approach time:

3 Man Bobsled Record 26:15

Approach time may vary. Consult the Approach Estimatorâ„¢ chart below

Approach Estimatorâ„¢ Chart
Base Time - 26 min - Add 15 min for each box checked*
X - Are you reading this?
X - Are you reading this on the approach?
X - First time doing this approach?
X - Is it dark?
X - Are you lost?
X - Did you forget your headlamp?
X - Did you get a flat tire?
  • boxes may be checked multiple times

Deproach - Reverse your steps, take your approach time and double it


Route climbs the east/north faces of Insomnia Spire


Small - Med Nuts
1x 00c3 - 0c3
2-3x 1c3 - .4c4
2x .5c4
1x .75 c4
2x 1-2c4
1x 3c4
1-2x 4c4
1x 6c4
8 or so runners
70m rope


Zach Harrison
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
Way fun! A good introduction to Insomnia Spire. Sweet cracks with just a kiss of the munge. Nov 7, 2016