Dream of Wild Tryptophan

Route climbs a long ramp with beautiful red-rock-like patina and stone. It then continues up the system to gain the larger ledge. 

Rap 1: from chains down to right. Small ledge with bolts & chains. On the right wall.

Rap 2: to the pincushion ledge, bolted anchor.

Pitch 1

- Enjoy the awesome rock as you work up the ramp, placing small cams all the way up. More often than not, you’ll find yourself coasting up the arete jugs. 

Pitch 2

- Take off from the belay, clip that bolt, and work your way up. A bit of heady climbing will take you to the final, slightly overhung section. Stem your way to the top.

From Forest Road 778, navigate to Buckhead Point on the west side of Insomnia. At the northeast side of the parking area, hike down between the limestone layer.

You have two approach options:

Option 1: Rappel In from the top of Late Onset Insomnia

• Hike down to the top of the sport pitch, Late Onset Insomnia.

• Rappel the single pitch on chains, or fix a rope: GPS coordinates: 34.997321, -111.782044

• On exit, you can either:

  • Hike out,

  • Climb the 5.12 sport pitch, or

  • Jug out on your fixed rope.

Option 2: Handline Descent

• A committing approach involving some exposed scrambling.

• You'll hand-over-hand down sections of vertical rock (approx. 10 ft each).

• The handline begins at a tree GPS coordinates: 34.997630, -111.782380

• Follow the handline down, then continue via cairns.

Both approaches converge on a large lower ledge system. Follow cairns to another handline (tied to a pine tree) and descend through bushy terrain until you reach a pine tree about 15 ft from the cliff edge.

• Top of the route coordinates: 34.997393, -111.780653

Rap the route with a 70m.

70m rope

doubles
000 c3 - #2 C4 (extras in C3s are welcome and you will surely be happy to place them when the crack thins up once or twice).
1 #3 C4
1 #4 C4 for P2.