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Routes in West Canyon

Ebony Eggshells T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Falcon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Fool's paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prudence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swan Song S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
W'gasa T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Todd goss
Page Views: 230 total · 10/month
Shared By: Hyrum j. C on Oct 10, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Another great line bolted by Todd Goss.

Pitch 1: 5.6 slab about 70' a little sandy and mossy. Crux down low.

Pitch 2: 11d-12a 90' vertical climbing, Big moves, two knee bar rests, and some crimping on small edges.

Pitch 3: 11c 60' steep climbing on huge holds. Starts out with some really awesome Finns/spines leaning to the right. This one is the pitch that you came here for!

Location

Park at the parking lot past the dip where you park to go to Atomic Indian. Hike north on the dirt road for about 10-15 minutes, look to the left and you will see a big, awesome looking arete which is the climb. Leave the dirt road hiking west to some smaller rock formations which you scramble up and that takes you into a slot. Close to the end of the slot you will spot the bolts on your right on the slab. The approach should take about 25 minutes total. Also don't go around the rock formation unless you wanna try free soloing some little chimneys to get on top of the formation.

Protection

70 meter rope 14 draws. We ended up doing the rappel in one long desent and came down onto a slab with a little bit of down climbing needed. You could possibly rap this with a sixty it just would be hard to get to the rap anchors of the 11d pitch because the last pitch is so overhanging.

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