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Routes in West Canyon

Falcon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Fool's paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prudence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swan Song S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Troy D. Anderson and Nate Brown 1998
Page Views: 690 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nate Brown on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Good desert adventure on what has been previously described as the "Falcon Arie" meaning the wall that starts with "Babes in Thailand" on the southern (left) end and ending in the north-facing routes to the north including an old, mostly forgotten Lowe aid route. Troy and I did this route after the bolting ban came in to effect and a permit/application process was required for any new fixed anchors. Troy and I did the route without drilling. Troy lead a pitch half way up the route that was about 80 feet of 5.10 slab and face climbing over a sidewalk-type ledge. We found a broken bicycle half way up the route that we later learned came from a television stunt spearheaded by Middendorf. Joe French has joked about calling this system "The Whores of Singapore".

Location

The route is about 500 feet north of Babes in Thailand and climbs a left-facing chossy corner/crack system in the center of the face. The system is broken by the blank, run-out slab section that leads in to a bushy, just-less-than vertical splitter system. We descended as for Babes.

Protection

Good rack of cams and nuts, maybe a crash pad.

Photos

steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
That guy is pretty much everybody's favorite guidebook author. Aug 28, 2009
Nate Brown
Wilson, Wy
Nate Brown   Wilson, Wy
I should add: When Todd Goss put out his book, in a phone conversation we had, he refused to include this route because he called it a "death route". I guess if we had permitted it and drilled it in to submission, it would have worked into his paradigm, or is it paragon? Aug 28, 2009