All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Snow Canyon SP > W Canyon

The Falcon

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British X

Routes in West Canyon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ebony Eggshells T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Falcon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
	Fool's paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mistaken Identity S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Prudence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Swan Song S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	W'gasa T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	37.1974, -113.64919
FA:	Troy D. Anderson and Nate Brown 1998
Page Views:	1,642 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Nathan Brown on Aug 28, 2009
Admins:	Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

All Climbing in West Canyon is closed from Feb 1 to June 1st for nesting closures.

Description

Good desert adventure on what has been previously described as the "Falcon Arie" meaning the wall that starts with "Babes in Thailand" on the southern (left) end and ending in the north-facing routes to the north including an old, mostly forgotten Lowe aid route. Troy and I did this route after the bolting ban came in to effect and a permit/application process was required for any new fixed anchors. Troy and I did the route without drilling. Troy lead a pitch half way up the route that was about 80 feet of 5.10 slab and face climbing over a sidewalk-type ledge. We found a broken bicycle half way up the route that we later learned came from a television stunt spearheaded by Middendorf. Joe French has joked about calling this system "The Whores of Singapore".

Location

The route is about 500 feet north of Babes in Thailand and climbs a left-facing chossy corner/crack system in the center of the face. The system is broken by the blank, run-out slab section that leads in to a bushy, just-less-than vertical splitter system. We descended as for Babes.