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Routes in West Canyon

Falcon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Fool's paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prudence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swan Song S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 380 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Todd Goss, F. Antognini
Page Views: 195 total · 11/month
Shared By: crhaag on Sep 25, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route does not appear to get climbed much. As of September 2016, there was quite a bit of moss and sand on it and you had to be careful of hollow and brittle holds.

P1 60'. 5.5 - Up a little dihedral in a slot canyon to a slabby traverse. One bolt about 25' off the deck. Small to medium pro.

P2 95'. 5.8 - Hand crack to 4 bolts to more crack and a nice belay ledge. Up t a #3 camalot.

P3 85'. 5.8 - 2 bolts on the face and up a hollow crack. Small to medium pro.

P4 75'. 5.6 - Big ol' acmes and chicken heads. Three runout bolts, although it is not sketchy. Sling some fragile sandstone for extra pro if you want.

P5 65'. 5.10a - Varnish crack followed by 4 bolts and a bulge. Anchors on a big ledge. Small pro.

Protection

There are bolts scattered around. Small TCU's up to a #3 camalot will do. Medium nuts will work in a few spots as well, but are not necessary.

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