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Routes in Pyramid Peak

A Dream of Wind Horses T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Return to Forever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rockwork Orange T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Stage Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Charlie Beard and Matt Dobbs (Sept 18, 2015)
Page Views: 413 total, 30/month
Shared By: Matt D on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

p1 (5.6 pg, 30m) Straight up from the stage on friction, through a hollow sounding crescent, and slightly right past two edges (medium nuts, small cams) to a single fixed point of protection, then up on friction (5.6 PG) to a belay on natural gear in a large flaring crack (eats up cams medium to large) at the overlap. 

p2 (5.7pg, 40m) Follow the wide flaring crack up through the overlap, then straight up on friction past 3 fixed points of protection spaced a couple body lengths apart, to a 2 fixed-point belay just left of the tree island. This belay is equipped for rappel.

p3 (5.6, 30-35m) Move up and right (5.6) to gain the left facing vegetated corner, and follow it up (5.0) to the overlap for a belay on natural gear.

p4 (5.4, 30-35m) Up through the overlap following the wide crack straight up to its end (lots of gear. Leave the crack system on friction up to a 2 fixed-point belay on the slab.

p5 (5.4 (5.2R), 60m rope stretcher) Straight up on friction past a fixed points of protection (5.4), then increasingly easy (5.2R) until crack and left-facing overlap with a natural gear belay in a flaring crack (save two 0.5-1” cams or tricams for the belay). This is a full 60m pitch, with no gear between the bolt and the crack.

p6 (5.3, 25m) Move up right over the overlap and traverse to the tree island.

Location

Approach: From the RHS of Pyramid’s South face (see “getting there”), where the bushwack emerges, scramble down, crossing the tree island, and across the bottom of the LHS slab to the prominent 30x20' "stage" (44.119516 north, -73.856856 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 591466 4885782) that sits at the bottom of the LHS and marks the start of Stage Show and the Mountaineers Route.

Descend by walking (2nd class) down the steep, grassy/treed tree island. Beware: raspberry bushes - tasty and sharp! Most parties will choose to make 2-3 short single rope rappels at the bottom (slings on trees). where the bushwack emerges, scramble down, crossing the tree island, and across the bottom of the LHS slab to the prominent 30x20' "stage" (44.119516 north, -73.856856 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 591466 4885782) that sits at the bottom of the LHS and marks the start of Stage Show and the Mountaineers Route, where the bushwack meets the face.

Protection

Standard single rack. A 60m rope and 0.5-1” cams are needed for the belay on p5.
Hobo Greg
My Van
5.5
Hobo Greg   My Van
5.5
Had the best birthday of my life yesterday leading all the pitches on this route. The funniest moment by far was finding two really nice locking biner’s on the route. BIRTHDAY PRESENTS FROM ROCK GODS?!? We hammocked the night before to cut the mileage and to enjoy the luxury of the forest. Hike up in morning was surprisingly easy for the Dacks, and the bushwhack was arduous but short, with some tasty raspberries en route.

ROUTE AND APPROACH BETA: Enter the forest about 100 yards before the trail crosses a 30’ slab of rock (so walk back when you hit this). After fifty yards or so, you’ll see the slabs, keep em on your right and keep going down till you see the Stage feature. The climb itself is perfectly described here, and it’s wonderfully straight forward and cruiser, I love slab so it felt like 5.5 and under for me, though the lichen made it more fun! Lunch atop the route with a view of unbroken wilderness, waves of mountains wearing forests like gowns. Hiked down the tree island, somehow not finding nor needing any raps. We busted back onto the Weld trail not 50 feet from where we entered only a few hours before (1:45 to climb the route, and probably an hour to bushwhack to and from.

We then hiked up to Pyramid for some epic views of Gothics. Religious-like experience staring at all the rock. Over to summit of Gothics, back over Pyramid, and up Sawteeth, for the heck of it, and for an outstanding view of the Pyramid slab that we had climbed. Climbing a really cool, long route, and then hiking somewhere else to see the cliff is my new favorite hobby. To end the day, we drank our beers that we had stashed in the brook the night before, making the 3.5 miles on the lake road much more enjoyable! Thanks to Matt and Charlie for putting up a friggin’ awesome climb in an even more awesome setting! Sep 30, 2017
Matt D
Jay, NY
 
Matt D   Jay, NY
 
see adirondackrock.com/newroute… for the version for the 3rd edition of Adirondack Rock, including routes not described here. Oct 10, 2016