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Routes in Pyramid Peak

A Dream of Wind Horses T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Return to Forever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rockwork Orange T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Stage Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Description

The south face of Pyramid is one of the Adirondacks’ big technical faces. In character, it is similar to Chapel pond Slab, though longer and with a secluded alpine feel. For rock climbing, it has been largely unexplored/documented until recently.

Overview: The recent technical routes to go up are moderate in grade and make use of fixed protection to give safe access to big, blank sections. The rock is south-facing, dries fast, and gets good early and late season sun. It faces away from the popular trails and so you are unlikely to hear or see anyone while climbing in this area. Though isolated with its southern perspective, it sits just 10-20 minutes of moderate bushwacking from a major trail.

A strip of grass and trees runs from the bottom RHS of the face to the top center (the "tree island"), dividing the face into a LHS and RHS. This also provides and obvious and easy descent route, walking down with 2-3 short (~20m) rappels from trees near the bottom.

Getting There

Start at the parking area at the junction of route 73 and Ausable Club road, directly across the highway from the Roaring Brook Falls trailhead/parking. On foot, follow the road up to the Ausable club (only registered guests are allowed to bring cars up), and take the trail (actually a gravel road) to Lower Ausable lake. Cross the foot bridge near the dam at the North of the lake and take the Alfred W. Weld trail uphill towards Sawteeth and Gothics to the col between Pyramid and Sawteeth (2.5 hrs from car). Continue up the trail 1/4 mile or so to where the Pyramid face can just barely be seen through the trees when the foliage is not too dense (44.120091 north, -73.852501 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 591814 4885851), Bushwack west 15-20 minutes to the Pyramid face at (44.121660 north, -73.855387 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 591580 4886022). This should leave you just below the RHS of the south face.

5 Total Climbs

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JHaas  
Great addition to the High Peaks backcountry. Nice going mdobbs and friends! Oct 10, 2016
Matt D
Jay, NY
Matt D   Jay, NY
Thanks Jeremy.

These routes are now described (more thoroughly and with their usual careful attention to detail and history) in the online extras section of Jim and Jeremy's guidebook to the 'dacks: adirondackrock.com/newroute… Oct 13, 2016

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