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Routes in Pyramid Peak

A Dream of Wind Horses T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Return to Forever T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rockwork Orange T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Stage Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 850 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: ACB: Matt Dobbs and Jean-Luc Michaud (July 11, 2015)
Page Views: 202 total, 15/month
Shared By: Matt D on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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The route follows the easiest line up the LHS slabs of the South Face. Variations of this line have undoubtably been climbed before. Here I describe the line we took July 11, 2015.

p1 (50m, 5.2) From the stage, traverse right to the left-ward rising arch. Follow it up until its possible to break out right and traverse right on slab to a series of overlaps (belay on slung big boulder) 

p2 (30m, 5.2) straight up to tree islands

p3 (30-40m, 5.3) traverse left and below the next tree island on slab to bottom of the large gully/crack feature, dirty in places.

p4 (30-35m,5.3) up gully/crack to a natural belay below its steep section.

p5 (30-35m, 5.4) up the the steep section of the gully/crack to slab and 15m further to a 2 fixed-point belay

p6 (60m rope stretcher, 5.4 (5.2R)) Straight up on friction past a fixed point of protection (5.4), then increasingly easy (5.2R,) until crack and left-facing overlap with a natural gear belay in a flaring crack (save two 0.5-1” cams or tricams for the belay). This is a full 60m pitch, with no gear between the bolt and the crack.

p7 (25m, 5.3) move up right over the overlap and traverse to the tree island.


Approach: starts from "the Stage", see Stage Show approach.

Descent: see Stage Show.


Standard alpine rack. A 60m rope and 0.5-1” cams are needed for P5.