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Routes in Bird-Foot Buttress

American Dream Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Value T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hard Nose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Bird TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother and Apple Pie T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pay Off T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Procto Pete and the Endos TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sick Vulture TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: FTR: Joel and Dan? FL: Eggert?
Page Views: 736 total, 47/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Starts with a desperate crimpy boulder problem to a horizontal around 16+ feet off the ground. From here, go more or less straight up the face with heroic moves on jugs and edges. We did not use the right arete.

Location

Climb the face between the "Sick Vulture" and "Little Bird" aretes.

Protection

TR or decent pro in the horizontals.

Photos

Michael Sullivan
Seattle, WA
 
Michael Sullivan   Seattle, WA  
 
Led this with Brian Seegers back in late October. I really enjoyed it. At this stage in my climbing this was a really nice little test of head-skills during pretty thin climbing. Done as head point, I found the first horizontal to be pretty darn flaring and ended up building a nest of some of my smallest mastercams before moving on to the next break. Did my best to stay true to the face using a pretty shitty left-hand-three-finger-half-pad(?) crimp at one point but found myself forced into one right-hand side-pull and one right heel-hook on the arete before attaining the gear-placement stance on little feet. Thanks for alerting the community to this one Chris! Nov 7, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10+ PG13
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10+ PG13
I'll agree with 10+! Someone else go climb it and tell us what you think, chances are I'll never make it back to Birdfoot! Sep 7, 2016
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Didn't even get close Eric! But it was a lot of fun regardless to try.

Doug, I think it could be 11- too, but the sequence is fairly short then it eases off to a jug haul. Neither Matt or I did it first try, however it was pretty warm the day we were there. Sep 7, 2016
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
45 routes? Sep 6, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10+ PG13
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10+ PG13
Nice lead indeed! Quite hard and delicate moves and looked like no gear in off the deck. Very fun moves though! Sep 6, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I remember trying this about a year ago - I think my companion got it after a few tries. Seemed 11-ish to me!

We did not even think about leading it! Way to go! Sep 6, 2016
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Lead this yesterday as part of my 45th Bday challenge weekend. A frightening hard start into very enjoyable climbing. Surprised it wasn't listed on MP or a guidebook already as a face climb -- the "variation" of Sick Vulture that allows use of the upper arete notwithstanding. Sep 6, 2016