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Routes in Bird-Foot Buttress

American Dream Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Value T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hard Nose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Bird TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother and Apple Pie T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pay Off T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Procto Pete and the Endos TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sick Vulture TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982
Page Views: 2,981 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead.

American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the roof (when I first led it, I placed 5 cams) and climb, using dynamic moves, to the top.

Though it is possible to stop and place gear above the roof, I thought it added too much difficulty to be worth it, but make your own call. ADR is basically a boulder problem protected by a bunch of gear that you put in from a great stance; therefore, it may be the easiest 5.10 lead at DL.

Protection

Finger sized cams.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10d
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10d
THIS IS SOO GOOD!

0.3 C4 at the roof or/and a 0.4 C4 further out on the roof closer to the lip.

I placed 2 0.3 C4's and the 0.4 just cause. :) Aug 9, 2015
Wes W
Springfield, MO
  5.10d
Wes W   Springfield, MO
  5.10d
Safest DL 5.10 lead! Jul 2, 2015
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
I don't believe the uber direct has been sent. Apr 30, 2013
G. Neely
Denver, CO
G. Neely   Denver, CO
Cool route, cool crag. I mistakenly attempted (on TR) the "Uber Direct" at first thinking that was the route. Bouldery indeed, and I got shut down. Out of curiosity, on a historic level, who FA'ed the "Uber Direct"? Was that Bechler too? Apr 30, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10d
Fantastic climb! Great gear, and pulling the roof is a unique experience for the lake. May 24, 2012
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Onsighted the route on Saturday. So fun and exciting! Some hero moves at the top.

The direct is only a pinch harder, but I would give it an R rating. This is the first time I had to ask my belayer to be ready to jump off a boulder. Head-pointed that one... Aug 22, 2011
Leo Hski  
 
This route is the cover (front and back) of the Extremist's Guide.

Beta: Plug in bomber gear. Grab big holds. Pull down. Nov 5, 2009
undercling with right hand is key. either in the crack (with a decent thumb catch) or out right. establish this and hike your feet up. reach up over the roof with the left --higher than you think. once established, throw up with the right to a good notch. match and you're cutting your feet to a great finish. lovely route :) Jul 26, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Vinny and I sent the direct today, started on the left side of the lower roof and moved up and then right to under the upper roof. One cam down low in a horizontal and then just a move or two of business to the stance under the ledge. Then, plugged four cams and sent. PG-13 for the direct for a move or two with potential decking at the bottom, the upper roof is very well protected..

We also tried a "Uber Direct" line that went straight up both roofs. Very hard and bouldery, didn't get it clean, maybe later, hard 12ish.

By far the best route at Birdfoot. Jul 24, 2009
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
F.A. : Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982. Rich led this and we then all promptly led it on his gear. Fun route even if it is abit short.Rich later went back and did a direct start?
The crags and bouldering in this area make for some pretty fun exploring and cragging. The trail/road on top was also fun mtn. biking. peace and f-nes Oct 5, 2007