American Dream Roof
Avg: 3.3 from 19 votes
Routes in Bird-Foot Buttress
|American Dream Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Face Value T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Hard Nose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Left Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Little Bird TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mother and Apple Pie T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Pay Off T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Procto Pete and the Endos TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Right Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Sick Vulture TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Squeeze Play T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|FA:||Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982|
|Page Views:||2,981 total, 24/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2007|
|Admins:||Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionThere was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead.
American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the roof (when I first led it, I placed 5 cams) and climb, using dynamic moves, to the top.
Though it is possible to stop and place gear above the roof, I thought it added too much difficulty to be worth it, but make your own call. ADR is basically a boulder problem protected by a bunch of gear that you put in from a great stance; therefore, it may be the easiest 5.10 lead at DL.