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Routes in Bird-Foot Buttress

American Dream Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Value T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hard Nose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Bird TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother and Apple Pie T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pay Off T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Procto Pete and the Endos TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sick Vulture TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,350 ft
GPS: 43.413, -89.707 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,993 total, 32/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Description

High in the woods west of the Quarry, this is probably the best known outcrop in the area, largely because the American Dream Roof is such an unusual problem for the Lake. There are several other nice, moderate routes around the corner to the left. However the descriptions given in Swarting veer toward the contrived (i.e. "avoid using the lower right corner"), which I find aesthetically unsatisfying (I guess I'm more of a mountaineer than a boulderer). If you are willing to ignore the rules, there are at least 4-5 fun routes here.

Getting There

The easiest approach is possibly to hike up from the group camp area. See the notes to the West of the Quarry section. However, the *most common* approach is to up the CCC trail, head back into the woods to the East Bluff Woods trail, and hike east through a gap and up to the next hilltop. See the beta photo for where to dive into the woods.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bird-Foot Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Face Value
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
American Dream Roof
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Face Value 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
American Dream Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
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Photos

In my opinion the best approach to Birdfoot is to park at the lot on Hwy DL on the north side of the park, walk the flat access road straight south to the T intersection with the Ice Age trail, head east for a couple of hundred yards and you will see a tree on your right with a yellow tag on it, head into the woods there and walk south, trending left .1mi and you will be at the top of Birdfoot.
MUCH easier than a slog up the talus slope, albeit longer this approach is much more pleasant, especially with summer foliage. Total of 1.3mi walk. Jul 24, 2009

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