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Routes in Bird-Foot Buttress

American Dream Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Value T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hard Nose TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Bird TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mother and Apple Pie T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pay Off T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Procto Pete and the Endos TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Turkey Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sick Vulture TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Play T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 118 total, 1/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Use the crack as much as possible, liebacking to the left. Ignore the guidebook and use the corner where it feels natural to grab it.

Location

Right hand edge of the face to the right of Squeeze Play. Around the corner to the left of American Dream Roof.

Protection

Almost, but not quite enough to keep you from hitting the ground.
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Went back and did this again. Cool, devious moves. Sustained. Jul 5, 2015
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10b PG13
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10b PG13
Really fun route and good lead! Bomber small cams protect the crux. Although attentive belay is a must to keep a falling climber off the deck. We started in the crack using face holds where they existed. Steller layback moves lead to a distinct crux where the crack pinches down to a seam, a few bad feet and small crimps allow you to gain the jugular horizontal at 25ft. We stayed off the arete which may have added a number grade or so. Grade is probably somewhere in the 5.10 range. Apr 22, 2012
jaysquared
Madison, WI
5.10a
jaysquared   Madison, WI
5.10a
If the corner is avoided all together, this definitely feels ~10a. Aug 20, 2011
Tradiban  
 
To the left? To the left of "Squeeze Play"? I didn't get on it. Please post it up! It's not in the guidebook. Aug 21, 2009
Tradiban  
 
I say use the right corner up top, it definitely felt more natural although you don't need it. Fun layback climbing! Jul 24, 2009