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Routes in Ship's Prow

Black Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Wall GT Ledge (Variation) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot Shot T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jams of Joy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Layback Further & Relax a Bit More T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Layback and Relax T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rainbow Coalition TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefing Points T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reign of Terror TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Face T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ship's Prow Starboard T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ship's Prow, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Simple Stuff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slicer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Black Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W-2s T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wet Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Widest Whitest T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 165 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Aug 31, 2016
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This route only has about 6' of business. Pulling the roof is the obvious crux; the slab leading to the roof is an easy walk-up. You can protect the crux well by placing gear on either side of the "guillotine blade" - the route name derives from this distinguishable feature. Use a layback move on the (painful) left crack and/or use a crimper on the blade edge. This route could use some additional cleaning.

Location

On the left end of Ship's Prow and climber's right of Jams of Joy (the roof with two cracks), look for the "guillotine blade". It is hard to miss.

Protection

Smaller cams (#0.3 - #0.5 BDs) to protect the crux.

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