5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m)|
|Page Views:||892 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Dust Diedricksen on Aug 31, 2016 · Updates|
|Admins:||Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
This route only has about 6' of business. Pulling the roof is the obvious crux; the slab leading to the roof is an easy walk-up. You can protect the crux well by placing gear on either side of the "guillotine blade" - the route name derives from this distinguishable feature. Use a layback move on the (painful) left crack and/or use a crimper on the blade edge. This route could use some additional cleaning.
On the left end of Ship's Prow and climber's right of Jams of Joy (the roof with two cracks), look for the "guillotine blade". It is hard to miss.