Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 631 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Aug 31, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This route only has about 6' of business. Pulling the roof is the obvious crux; the slab leading to the roof is an easy walk-up. You can protect the crux well by placing gear on either side of the "guillotine blade" - the route name derives from this distinguishable feature. Use a layback move on the (painful) left crack and/or use a crimper on the blade edge. This route could use some additional cleaning.

Location

On the left end of Ship's Prow and climber's right of Jams of Joy (the roof with two cracks), look for the "guillotine blade". It is hard to miss.

Protection

Smaller cams (#0.2 - #0.3 BDs) to protect the crux.

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