Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 699 total · 23/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Jun 11, 2016
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start with a hand crack for a move or two, and then stroll up an easy slab to the steep-ish face (at climber's right). Move higher up on the slab for an easier start on the steep section, which is to the right of the small pine tree growing out of the cliff. The steep climbing is a bit reachy and is sustained 5.5/5.6 climbing (i.e., crux). Gear can be placed after each somewhat-committing move (for the grade) on the steep face. Finish at the lookout area shared with Black Wall.

Location

This is to the (climber's left) of Black Wall's arete. Look for a 10' hand crack that leads to a slabby section with a steep wall off to the right. The small pine tree growing out of the cliff is a good reference point - the steep section with sustained difficulty (i.e., crux) is to the right of this tree.

Protection

A BD #2 Camalot (yellow) for the beginning hand crack. There are a few choices for gear on the steep wall. A red or pink tricam can work at the horizontal crack.

Photos

ShawnM
  5.6
ShawnM  
  5.6
I would rate this route as "great" if it were longer. The rock is excellent quality. Nice short bit of crack climbing at the start then face climbing with good protection and stances to place gear. A couple of good options for variation on this face to increase difficulty. Jun 2, 2017
Jonathan Lam
Boston, MA
 
Jonathan Lam   Boston, MA
 
There were a bunch of toads in the upper horizontal jug cracks. Don't squish them! :) Sep 22, 2018
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
  5.6
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
  5.6
This is listed in Boston Rocks as 5.5. If you consider yourself a 5.5/5.6 leader, it may feel a little bit exciting, but just do it! You'll have fun! Maybe the best, super-local, Boston-area, easy lead I've gotten on.

(If you're a shorter climber, don't let the description of the "reachy" moves deter you...at 5'1'', I found them totally doable with a little bit of commitment, and I think there may have even been some moves where being short was an asset.) Nov 25, 2018