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Routes in Ship's Prow

Black Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Wall GT Ledge (Variation) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot Shot T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jams of Joy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Layback Further & Relax a Bit More T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Layback and Relax T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rainbow Coalition TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reefing Points T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reign of Terror TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Face T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ship's Prow Starboard T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ship's Prow, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Simple Stuff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slicer T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Black Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W-2s T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wet Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Widest Whitest T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 391 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Sep 1, 2016
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

Climb up the first part (i.e., "chimney 1") of Double Chimney to the ledge. Other Black Wall routes eliminate this chimney/corner. Step off the ledge into a horizontal seam, and make some reachy moves to some crimpers just below an obvious undercling. Grab the undercling, and smear to the top. There are some desperate sidepulls that you can try using as well (good luck if 5.9 is your limit). Boston Rocks has this rated as (old school) 5.9; finger strength is a must.

Location

Start at the chimney forming the right corner of the Black Wall, which is (climber's) left of the very distinguishable "ship's prow" feature. Stay right of the bolted line (look for two bolts).

Protection

Top rope.

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