Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||TR, 35 ft|
|Page Views:||415 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Dust Diedricksen on Sep 1, 2016|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle|
Climb up the first part (i.e., "chimney 1") of Double Chimney to the ledge. Other Black Wall routes eliminate this chimney/corner. Step off the ledge into a horizontal seam, and make some reachy moves to some crimpers just below an obvious undercling. Grab the undercling, and smear to the top. There are some desperate sidepulls that you can try using as well (good luck if 5.9 is your limit). Boston Rocks has this rated as (old school) 5.9; finger strength is a must.
Start at the chimney forming the right corner of the Black Wall, which is (climber's) left of the very distinguishable "ship's prow" feature. Stay right of the bolted line (look for two bolts).