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Routes in Ragged Mountain

Invasive Species T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Palm-o-Granite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ragged Kittens (linkup) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Runnin' Ragged T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stairway to Lichen T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 296 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Aug 18, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description [Edit]

One of the best 5.11 pitches around. It ascends a face, seam, and crack just left of an exposed arete, making for exposed climbing. Much harder for short people.

The route dries quickly except for 1 tiny smear of moisture at the base of the seam, which is, unfortunately, a key foothold. Not to worry, as the 5.8 to the left can always be climbed (even when wet); from that anchor, scramble right to this fixed anchor.

Go up the short crack and mantel onto a ledge. Climb the face past 2 bolts to a horizontal below a seam. Follow the seam through an overhanging wave (crux, bolt) to a bomber jam, then follow this excellent crack for 60' to a fixed anchor.

Location [Edit]

Walk right along the base of the cliff to an open area with several large submerged boulders. There is a beautiful wide crack in a left-facing corner that leads to a triangular roof 50' up. Begin 4' right of the corner at a short crack.

Protection [Edit]

Single set of nuts and cams to 3". Double up on purple Camalot. No micro cams required.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
If you're short, it really helps to pre-place a draw at the crux to make the clipping easier. Aug 23, 2016

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