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Runnin' Ragged

5.11d, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks R… > Ragged Mountain

Description

One of the best 5.11 pitches around. It ascends a face, seam, and crack just left of an exposed arete, making for exposed climbing. Much harder for short people.

The route dries quickly except for 1 tiny smear of moisture at the base of the seam, which is, unfortunately, a key foothold. Not to worry, as the 5.8 to the left can always be climbed (even when wet); from that anchor, scramble right to this fixed anchor.

Go up the short crack and mantel onto a ledge. Climb the face past 2 bolts to a horizontal below a seam. Follow the seam through an overhanging wave (crux, bolt) to a bomber jam, then follow this excellent crack for 60' to a fixed anchor.

You can toprope the line by climbing Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops, or Ragged Kittens (linkup).

Location

Walk right along the base of the cliff to an open area with several large submerged boulders. There is a beautiful wide crack in a left-facing corner that leads to a triangular roof 50' up. Begin 4' right of the corner at a short crack.

Protection

Single set of nuts and cams to 3". Double up on purple Camalot. No micro cams required.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Runnin' Ragged at Ragged Mountain, High Peaks, Adirondacks.
[Hide Photo] Runnin' Ragged at Ragged Mountain, High Peaks, Adirondacks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Lawyer

  5.11d
[Hide Comment] If you're short, it really helps to pre-place a draw at the crux to make the clipping easier. Aug 23, 2016
Jim Lawyer

  5.11d
[Hide Comment] It was 11b, but consensus seems to have moved it to 11d. There's a really hard height-dependent move...could be 12a. Aug 27, 2019