Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 178 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 22, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Once you have found the route, climb up the obvious weakness in the short vertical wall, then move left, passing below a left-facing corner that is the left end of an overhanging headwall. Reach a vertical crack system, make a move that is pretty sketchy unless you can reach a decent pro crack above the obstacle, a bulge where the vertical crack dies out.
Once past this, the next crack is lovely and useful all the way to the belay ledge.
For pitch 2, climb the left-leaning diagonal crack to the vertical offwidth crack. Without help from the tree growing in it, the steep move on the slab left of this crack would be terrifying, and certainly far beyond 5.3. With it, it seems more like 5.5 anyway. Basically, lurch left to another crack and follow it upward to much easier going and not long thereafter, the top.

Location

This route lies up and right of most of the climbing, and it isn't easy to find. Generally speaking, work up steep dirt vegetated dirt cones rightward, grabbing trees and roots as you skirt short cliffs on your left, until the open rock turns horizontally to the right. Look for a *very* small stack of rock flakes lying on a slab-stub beneath a short vertical step. The beech tree branches are doing their best to make this spot impractical.

Protection

Standard Adk. Rack plus a longish sling for the tree on the second pitch.

Photos

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