Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,170 total · 38/month
Shared By: John Gassel on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A good route, especially the upward leaning crack on the second pitch. It has some fun climbing and good exposure.

P1 (5.6, 120'): Start up an easy slab, aiming for a tree in vertical rock. It's possible (maybe a little harder than the grade, to avoid using the tree altogether. From there, continue up easier ground past a bolt to a two-bolt rap anchor beneath the crack of P2.

P2 (5.8+, 50'): A short but fun pitch. Start under the roof, making an awkward move to get established in the crack. Possible to protect this move with really small or slightly large pro (4" probably - we didn't have on). From there climb up the crack. Fun movement throughout. Stop at a nice belay with a 2 bolt anchor.

From here, a double-rope rappel will take you back to the ground or with the addition of Flight of the Manatee, you can now do this in two single-rope rappels. Two other finishes will also take you to the top of the cliff (recommended).

Location

The next main clearing about 150' to the right of the Quartz Crack area. It starts on at a pretty good base area that drops off steeply to the right.

Protection

Standard trad rack.

Photos

John Dunn
Jeffersonville, VT
John Dunn   Jeffersonville, VT
Fabulous route! The awkward move getting into the crack on p.2 is well protected with a #4 cam, and there is also an old pin just around the corner to the right that looks reasonably sound. After that a couple of larger pieces (3-4”) are still helpful but it can mostly be done with smaller ones. Sep 22, 2018