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Routes in Quartz Crack Face

Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal: Left Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal: Right Finish, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flight of the Manatee S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quartz Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,486 total, 91/month
Shared By: John Gassel on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

This is the namesake route on this wall for good reason — a well deserved classic that comes with a sense of adventure. You'll also be the star of the show all day as tourists gawk up at you from the parking lot.

P1 (5.5, ~60'): Go straight up, past 2 bolts to a nice ledge with a new two bolt rap anchor. It's possible (and I recommend) combining this pitch with the next one.

P2 (5.7, 70'): Move left from the anchor and up an easy corner trending back right almost immediately. Near the end of the pitch, continue up steeper terrain past an old pin or two to another nice ledge and a bolted rap anchor.

P3 (5.8, 95'; 5.6R): Move left off the belay again to the obvious crack. Some tricky pro and 3 ancient pins to get started. You'll pass some white quartz through this section that gives the route its name. After 40', run it out over easier terrain to a right facing corner above and a little left (pretty obvious). There are currently some really old, terrible cord slung around a block in this corner. Don't use it. Continue up to a new two-bolt rap anchor just above, under the roof.

P4 (5.9, 100'): Don't skip this pitch. It's the money in my opinion. Traverse low and right until under a corner system and a terrible bolt that can be backed up with a very small cam. Move up from here, passing more ancient relics (and gear options that you should use) through the crux corner. Expect this to either be wet or mossy. Go all the way up this corner to under a roof. Don't traverse right too early. See for what not to do! Once under the roof, move right to a good ledge and gear/tree anchor.

Interesting to note that the P3 belay and entire climb of this pitch is totally protected from any time of rain the notch can throw at you, which can be a fun experience.

Descent: You can rap from rap from any of the first 3 pitches easily. Once you top out, you'll have to hike climber's right on the Beduin Trail a bit to another rap route. It's a pretty obvious trail that may be marked with orange or pink tape. Find a trail skiers right which leads to a nice ledge with two anchors on it. The one closest to the edge will have rap rings. A single 60m rope will take you to the top of the first pitch of Flight of the Manatee and a second rap gets you to the ground a few hundred feet climber's right of the base of Quartz Crack.

Location

Follow the approach for Quartz Crack Face. This climb is really easy to spot as it's the first clearing. Look up high for the massive roof above on the first pitch. There's also two bolts on the face right off the ground to let you know you're in the right spot.

If that's not enough, check out of someone on the first pitch.

Protection

Standard trad rack should get this done based on your mileage at the grade. There are a number of fixed pins of questionable nature () along the route and a few bolts on the first pitch.
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
The only recent aid ascent I know of would be Nate Vince and Hope Chipman's last summer. Feb 3, 2017
Greg VT
vermont
Greg VT   vermont
I should have worded my question better. I know it has been aided. I was just looking to hear from someone that actually did it. Feb 3, 2017
Derek Doucet  
 
Yes, the roof has been aided. Feb 2, 2017
Greg VT
vermont
Greg VT   vermont
Has anyone aided the roof? I've been on Quartz Crack a bunch, but never remember to check it out. Tough Schist says there is a bolt somewhere as well. Feb 1, 2017
John Gassel
Boston, MA
 
John Gassel   Boston, MA
 
KrisFiore, I definitely agree regarding the length of pitch 1. I've updated the route description accordingly. Sep 19, 2016
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
The amount of haggard pitons/cord/fixed gear on the route is hilarious. Pulling the corner bulge on the last pitch was sweet! Sep 4, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
I know the guidebook says the first pitch is 90 feet but it's really more like 40. It might be 50 but it's nowhere near 90. Aug 18, 2016