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The Diagonal

5.8, Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Vermont > Smuggler's Notch > Quartz Crack Face

Description

A good route, especially the upward leaning crack on the second pitch. It has some fun climbing and good exposure.

P1 (5.6, 120'): Start up an easy slab, aiming for a tree in vertical rock. It's possible (maybe a little harder than the grade, to avoid using the tree altogether. From there, continue up easier ground past a bolt to a two-bolt rap anchor beneath the crack of P2.

P2 (5.8+, 50'): A short but fun pitch. Start under the roof, making an awkward move to get established in the crack. Possible to protect this move with really small or slightly large pro (4" probably - we didn't have on). From there climb up the crack. Fun movement throughout. Stop at a nice belay with a 2 bolt anchor.

From here, a double-rope rappel will take you back to the ground or with the addition of Flight of the Manatee, you can now do this in two single-rope rappels. Two other finishes will also take you to the top of the cliff (recommended).

Location

The next main clearing about 150' to the right of the Quartz Crack area. It starts on at a pretty good base area that drops off steeply to the right.

Protection

Standard trad rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Green: Quartz Crack (5.9)
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Blue: The Diagonal (5.8+)
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Purple: The Diagonal: Right Finish (5.9+)
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Red: Flight of the Manatee (10c)
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Pink: Trail
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Yellow: Rappel Route
[Hide Photo] Green: Quartz Crack (5.9) Blue: The Diagonal (5.8+) Purple: The Diagonal: Right Finish (5.9+) Red: Flight of the Manatee (10c) Pink: Trail Yellow: Rappel Route
Topping out on p.2
[Hide Photo] Topping out on p.2
A piton near the end of P1 on The Diagonal. It feels solid, but it looks older than most climbers I know. Wouldn't whip; I placed another piece nearby.
[Hide Photo] A piton near the end of P1 on The Diagonal. It feels solid, but it looks older than most climbers I know. Wouldn't whip; I placed another piece nearby.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Dunn
Jeffersonville, VT
[Hide Comment] Fabulous route! The awkward move getting into the crack on p.2 is well protected with a #4 cam, and there is also an old pin just around the corner to the right that looks reasonably sound. After that a couple of larger pieces (3-4”) are still helpful but it can mostly be done with smaller ones. Sep 22, 2018