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Routes in unsorted Clough State Park routes

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 343 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Jul 17, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The finest of Clough thus far. This Mega classic lies above the large cave near Mammoth Rock.

Sit start way down inside the lair. There is a large flake right of a boulder inside the cave. Match hands and right heel hook. Pull on and make a few cool moves rightwards on good holds and slopers. Reach a good sidepull on the giant shelf and grab the next shelf. Match and make some hard moves pulling around the bulge using a crystal sloper pinch and a left hand undercling.

Snatch the lip and top out rightwards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HTzi1ujbRM

Location

From "The the orange buoys on the gravel road, hike into the woods following them, continue past the boulders they are anchored to, uphill and rightwards, eventually entering a small clearing into the sunlight with a cluster of small boulders. Hike up and right to a big crack/ off-width and move right around a shelf, and down a set of four steps. You will have to drop your pads in order to use the steps. From the bottom of the staircase walk up and left past a crack/ dyno problem and reach the climb "The Devil's Steps".

From here climb up using a hemlock tree and a good rock feature out left. Match the tree and pull around and press up using the slab to the left for a hand.

Stand up and walk up and left and this boulder is shaped like a warped super-ball that sits on top of a small rock pedestal.

Protection

Two pads and one or two spotters.

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