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Routes in unsorted Clough State Park routes

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 214 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Jan 7, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start on right side of the face on two flakes. One of them is sideways. One foot on a rail the other pushing on a good foot out right. Make a move left to a sharp sideways flake and match.

Then go up to two more crimps, Use some foot work and get situated for a move to a sloping rail and then the crux going to a sharp crimp jug, which is better if you can get your fingers behind it and full crimp it.

From here get your feet up and make a few more moves to the top using crimps and slopers on the lip. You can only go one way on the top out, a hole where the boulder covering the caves ends, throw a left heel on a good rail and mantle up.

Location

This route is located inside a cave uphill from Mammoth Rock. The climb up to it tends to be a bit of a trek, especially with pads. You will see an over-hanging rock that juts out about ten feet. The cave is just a few more feet up the hill from the overhang, the top out of the route is actually a part of this overhang. Once you are inside the cave this problem will be on your right side.

Protection

There is a rock right in the way of the landing, it can easily be covered up with a crash pad and this rock can also be used to scope out the route. I recommend having at least two pads if you want to try this problem.

Photos

Joe M.    
Been climbing since 1992, so maybe it's an old guy thing....

Tripod start (as demonstrated in the above video) means having three appendages (2 feet, one hand or 2 hands, one foot) on the rock (Tri) and one on the ground (pod), and then starting, usually with a subtle, or not so subtle, push off the ground... Jan 12, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
 
Not familiar with the tripod start. Maybe there could be tripod and sit variations. Jan 12, 2016
Been climbing since 2007 and I've never heard the term "tripod start" Jan 11, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
I think it's just the angle of the video that kinda makes it hard to see, but I was there when Brad was first working the problem and his butt definitely came off the pad when he started it, even if it was only a couple inches off the pad for the start and first few moves.

Also Brad noted in the video description (if you click the arrow in the upper right of the video, a link will pop up and if you click this you can watch it on youtube) that he's aware he dabbed in the video at around 1:57 and so he went back and did the climb again afterwards.

Also are tripod starts actually a thing? Like do some problems normally start like that? I've never heard this term before so just curious, it sounds like it would be a pretty bad boulder problem if it started with your butt not even leaving the ground until after the first move haha. Jan 11, 2016
Joe M.    
Pet peeve of mine, but that is not a sit start, it is a tripod start. A sit start is get your hands AND feet on the wall with your butt on the pad and then pull your butt off the pad to start. It's ok to have problems that are a tripod start but please be clear in your problem description as, for some problems, it is much more difficult to do a sit start than it is to do a tripod start... Jan 11, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
 
youtu.be/Ahmo4dpiAkE
Video of Satan's Alley. Jan 10, 2016