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Areas in Clough State Park

Island Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
North End, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Road-Side Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
South Side 0 / 0 / 0 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
unsorted Clough State Park routes 0 / 0 / 1 / 46 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 46
Elevation: 433 ft
GPS: 43.094, -71.655 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,901 total · 452/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Jan 7, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Overview

At this climbing spot, you will find all sorts of routes, from crimpy lowball v2s, to roof projects, to slopey arete 12-foot boulders and even top rope crack climbs. There are opportunities to boulder and to top-rope in the Park. In the boulder and cliff areas, there is a mixture of sun and shade. There are some routes inside caves which tend to stay dry or stay wet and damp.

In the warmer months, the mosquitoes tend to get obnoxious. Bring Bug Repellent! They get really bad!

The area is still currently being developed and as far as I know, the cliff faces have yet to be climbed.
Rock quality is good. You have to watch out for breakage of big flakes and small crimp jugs though. The rock type is granite.

This area of Clough State Park is very popular among people and their dogs, most of the time these people just walk across the dam and back and then leave.
Clough State Park also tends to be popular amongst snow-mobiles, dirt bikers, and mountain bikers.

Getting There

At the intersection with 3 Corners of Route 77, right near Pages Country Store and Deli, you are going to turn down the Road opposite of Jewett Road. the road is called Route 13 or Stark Highway N. You are going to travel down this road for a mile or two until you see a small gas station on your right. They usually have really good prices, but unfortunately, they do not have a store and do not take cash, the closest place to get beer would be Pages Country Store.

Take the right as soon as you pass the gas station on to Winslow Road. There will be a decently sharp curve in the road where Winslow changes to Stark Lane. You will then follow Stark lane around another few curves until you come to a stop sign. Take a left at the stop sign which will put you on Mansion Road. Follow Mansion road for about two miles and you will see a sign for Clough state park on your right. After you pass the sign you will turn right onto Everett Dam Road.

You will stay on this road until you see a big wooden gate and sign for Clough State Park. This is not the right entrance to get to the climbing. As soon as you pass this spot the road changes yet again and is then called Clough Park Road. As you travel a few hundred yards more, you will see a parking lot with yellow gates and a small building used by the park management. This is the right entrance.

When you park you will have to cross the dam all the way to the other side and you will see pick-nick tables a grill and a gazebo. Through the trees, you will start seeing tall cliffs and boulders.(This cliff is known as Raymond Cliff) There have been bouldering routes established to the left of the gazebo and also to the right of the gazebo.

To get to the boulders on the left you will have to go over a small cable fence and down a small rocky slope and into the woods. These boulders are the easiest to get to and are known as the Welcome Boulders of the South End. The South End Area turns into the Piscataquog State Forest.

In order to get to the boulders to the right of the gazebo, you will walk down a gravel road past another gate and you should see giant orange buoys. Once you get to the buoys turn into the woods and follow them into the heart of the boulder field.
Once you come to the end of the buoys and look right you should see a giant boulder that towers over others off in the distance, this boulder is known as Mammoth Rock or the John Clough Boulder. The front face of this boulder is called Remedy. It has been bouldered and top-roped before and is about 25-30 feet tall.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Clough State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4 PG13
 3
Earth
Boulder
V1-2 5
 8
Timeline
Boulder
V2-3 5+ R
 3
Wind
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Coyotes
Boulder
V3 6A
 3
Final Fantasy
Boulder
V3 6A
 3
Brass Monkey
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 4
Perry's Problem
Boulder
V3+ 6A+ PG13
 3
Slot Machine
Boulder
V4 6B
 3
Lord of the Flies
Boulder
V4 6B
 3
Fire
Boulder
V5- 6C
 4
The Lone Wolf
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
The Devil's Steps
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
Coyote Killer
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 3
State of Fear
Boulder
V7 7A+
 5
Tears Of A Lone Wolf
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Earth S Side > Elemental Boulder
 3
V0 4 PG13 Boulder
Timeline unsorted Clough SP ro…
 8
V1-2 5 Boulder
Wind S Side > Elemental Boulder
 3
V2-3 5+ R Boulder
Coyotes S Side > Lone Wolf Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Final Fantasy Island Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Brass Monkey S Side > Slot Machine Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Perry's Problem unsorted Clough SP ro…
 4
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Slot Machine S Side > Slot Machine Boulder
 3
V3+ 6A+ PG13 Boulder
Lord of the Flies Island Boulder
 3
V4 6B Boulder
Fire S Side > Elemental Boulder
 3
V4 6B Boulder
The Lone Wolf S Side > Lone Wolf Boulder
 4
V5- 6C Boulder
The Devil's Steps unsorted Clough SP ro…
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Coyote Killer S Side > Lone Wolf Boulder
 3
V6 7A Boulder
State of Fear unsorted Clough SP ro…
 3
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Tears Of A Lone Wolf S Side > Lone Wolf Boulder
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Clough State Park »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kevin Macartney
Laramie, WY
Kevin Macartney   Laramie, WY
I'm really glad someone else found an interest in this place. A few friends and I climbed there back around '07 to '09 ish and the pins on top of what you call Mammoth rock had been there a quite a while before that I'm sure. I remember going to check out the cliffs once, but I don't think we actually climbed anything that day, ha. Have fun out there! Apr 28, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
Thanks Kevin, my friends and I are putting up new climbs just about every outing. The place seems like it has almost endless possibilities! Apr 30, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Yeah Kevin this place is a sweet little spot for sure, although the rock is pretty sharp. So much potential it's awesome! Apr 30, 2016
Eli
GMC3500
Eli   GMC3500
Really impressed with the work you guys are putting in out there, keep it up! May 2, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Thanks Eli! May 2, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
How quickly does this place dry after rain? Oct 22, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
The majority of the boulders are tucked away in the forest, making it hard for sunlight to penetrate through the trees to dry the rocks. I'd say 2 days after rain. Once all the leaves fall and such maybe a little sooner. Oct 22, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I would like to make a suggestion to people posting routes here (and all of MP). When describing how to get to a section or boulder, it is better to give directions from the entrance. Relying on directions from another boulder is not helpful to people who are not familiar with the area as they more than likely also do not know where the referenced boulder is as well. Apr 17, 2018
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
I agree with you, Matt! I've been trying to get better at it, but sometimes I have to use other boulders as reference points. Hopefully, if people need better directions or help to navigate the area they can message or get a tour from a local. Apr 18, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Another option would be to create a caltopo map. Pretty handy when your out there. Better than cryptic directions. Apr 19, 2018

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