Clough State Park Bouldering
|GPS:||43.094, -71.655 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||10,638 total, 451/month|
|Shared By:||Brad Fauteux on Jan 7, 2016|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
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OverviewAt this climbing spot you will find all sorts of routes, from crimpy lowball v2s, to roof projects, to slopey arete 12 foot boulders and even top rope crack climbs. There are opportunities to boulder and to top rope in the Park. In the boulder and cliff areas there is a mixture of sun and shade. There are some routes inside caves which tend to stay dry, or stay wet and damp.
In the warmer months the mosquitoes tend to get obnoxious. Bring Bug Repellent! (Not as bad as Pawtuckaway)
The area is still currently being developed and as far as I know the cliff faces have yet to be climbed.
Rock quality is good. You have to watch out for breakage of big flakes and small crimp jugs though. The rock type is granite.
This area of Clough State Park is very popular among people and their dogs, most of the time these people just walk across the dam and back and then leave.
Clough State Park also tends to be popular amongst snow-mobiles, dirt bikers, and mountain bikers.
Getting ThereAt the intersection with 3 Corners of Route 77, right near Pages Country Store and Deli, you are going to turn down the Road opposite of Jewett Road. the road is called Route 13 or Stark Highway N. You are going to travel down this road for a mile or two until you see a small gas station on your right. They usually have really good prices, but unfortunately they do not have a store and do not take cash, closest place to get beer would be Pages Country Store.
Take the right as soon as you pass the gas station on to Winslow Road. There will be a decently sharp curve in the road where Winslow changes to Stark Lane. You will then follow Stark lane around another few curves until you come to a stop sign. Take a left at the stop sign which will put you on Mansion Road. Follow Mansion road for about two miles and you will see a sign for Clough state park on your right. After you pass the sign you will turn right onto Everett Dam Road.
You will stay on this road until you see a big wooden gate and sign for Clough State Park. This is not the right entrance to get to the climbing. As soon as you pass this spot the road changes yet again and is then called Clough Park Road. As you travel a few hundred yards more, you will see a parking lot with yellow gates and a small building used by the park management. This is the right entrance.
When you park you will have to cross the dam all the way to the other side and you will see pick-nick tables a grill and a gazebo. Through the trees you will start seeing tall cliffs and boulders.(This cliff is known as Raymond Cliff) There have been bouldering routes established to the left of the gazebo and also to the right of the gazebo.
To get to the boulders on the left you will have to go over a small cable fence and down a small rocky slope and into the woods. These boulders are the easiest to get to and are known as the Welcome Boulders of the South End. The South End Area turns into the Piscataquog State Forest.
In order to get to the boulders to the right of the gazebo you will walk down a gravel road past another gate and you should see giant orange buoys. Once you get to the buoys turn into the woods and follow them into the heart of the boulder field.
Once you come to the end of the buoys and look right you should see a giant boulder that towers over others off in the distance, this boulder is known as Mammoth Rock or the John Clough Boulder. The front face of this boulder is called Remedy. It has been bouldered and top roped before and is about 25-30 feet tall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Clough State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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