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Routes in unsorted Clough State Park routes

Type: Boulder, 17 ft
FA: Jake Perry
Page Views: 82 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

An extremely unique climb that traverses a large horizontal split in the boulder. Sit start in the crack out right and traverse it left on good holds. Go around the corner and start climbing the overhang via good crimps and possibly a kneebar. Continue the leftward movement and press/ stem into the angle change and stay close to the wall. Make more moves in this position until you can reach up right hand to a hold below the lip. Stand up and match. Make a hard topout high off the deck over a not so great landing.

Jake and I were working this line trying to top out direct above the overhang, but the natural flow of the traverse sends you into the horizontal stemming sequence. The Line going up from the overhang seems like it will go, and will involves some hard compression moves off of a good undercling and the arete/ lip.

This line needs a lot of cleaning still, but it is definitely really unique and a fun problem. There is also some great potential for a hard slab climb going up from the start of this line.

Location

Uphill from Mammoth Rock and left of The Sink Boulder. This large boulder is hard to miss with the low split in it.

Protection

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Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V5
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V5
This thing is sick, I've never done so many unique moves on one boulder problem, it's super weird and super my style. It will be classic once we clean it more. The topout is hard, you pretty much have to pistol squat. This is really almost like three climbs combined, V2 (start traverse to getting on the overhang), V4/5 (overhang moves to lip out left), V2/3 (topout). The direct will be sweet and the slab will be hard. Sep 18, 2016