Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||252 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Phil Lauffen on May 8, 2016|
DescriptionThis is an incredible route that will test your head as well as your biceps as the cruxes are somewhat cerebral as well as powerful, a "FairyTale Mixture". Be prepared to battle slopers as rounded as a Norsk jenta's rumpe with your feet well above the last draw.
Same start as Drømdiedre and Massih Attack. Eventyrblanding is the left line. Usually there is a fixed rope on the first bolt if you want to pre-clip the second bolt (recommended, especially with a long draw to avoid rope drag over the roof). Start the climb in a beautiful, black and featured band of something I've never climbed anywhere else. Geologists? Crimp, stem and pinch up the corner and pull over the roof to a few crimpy moves separated by good rests. You'll move somewhat right of the bolt line and find yourself looking directly left at a slopey rail. Don't clip the bolt directly to your left, as this is for Drømdiedre and will reward you only with a large amount of rope drag.
Balance out the slopers and move to the flake, where you are rewarded with a bolt. Move left again into the crack before you bust out right on some slightly easier, but still airy moves to a stance where you can clip the last bolt. Hopefully you've still got some gas in the tank and you can ride the crimps to the anchors with ease.