Flatanger Rock Climbing
|GPS:||64.496, 10.817 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||9,712 total, 330/month|
|Shared By:||Phil Lauffen on Jul 13, 2015|
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DescriptionThis is quintessential granite sport clambering at it's finest. Relatively new, Flatanger has been under development only in the past two decades, and new routes are still going up, both in the cave, Hanshelleren, and elsewhere.
The climbing here can satisfy every appetite. There is cracked-out trad climbing, steep never-ending jug-hauling, slab, boulder problem test-pieces and arm-burning endurance rope-stretchers, as well as any other hyphenated appellation applied to climbing you can think of other than choss-pile. No matter the grade you climb, you will find awesome routes at Flatanger. This says nothing about the fact that the world's first 9b+ (Change) is located here, and new hard-hard first ascents are going up every year.
The most well known area is Hanshelleren (Han's cave for the non-Norwegian verbose among you), and boasts more than 50 routes from 5c to... too hard for you. Hanshelleren routes typically are past vertical to horizontal on bullet-hard, glacier-polished (statements like this may not be scientifically true) granite that is surprisingly grippy but doesn't wreck your poor tender skin like most granite. From my sampling of routes, expect lots of big sidepulls, liebacks, and underclings on smeary feet.
Come in the summer. The cave can seep when it rains heavily, which is annoying. You can expect hot temperatures in the convection-oven like cave in the full sun, but remember, you are close to the arctic circle. I had a great time climbing in the morning until the heat became oppressive, and then returning around 7pm and staying as long as my arms could take it. The sun never really sets in the summer. The biggest problem I've encountered is the tiny, biting flies. Your vital, exposed openings and airways will be swarmed by thousands of kamikaze and MEAN little sonsufbitches if it is not windy. I recommend investing in one of those goofy looking mesh hats, honestly.
On rest days, swim, fish for free in the ocean, and try to pick up the hot grocer girls at Lausvnes.
Everyone camps at the farm in Strom (www.climbflatanger.com). Camping is technically free everywhere on undeveloped private land, but the ammenities(kitchen, showers, poopers, smelly barn) at the camping are worth the price ($10/night/person). If you are really fancy, you can stay in the farmhouse at double the price.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season